La Montre Hermès has updated its Dressage watch for men, expanding the diameter of its traditional tonneau case by 1.5 mm to 40.5 mm. The big news for Hermès is what’s inside: the firm’s first proprietary movement.
The movement, Caliber H1837, is made for Hermès by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, in which Hermès has a 25-percent share; the other 75 percent is owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation, which also owns the Parmigiani watch brand. (Hermès also launched a second movement made exclusively for it by Vaucher, H1912, for women’s watches.) H1837, named after the year Hermès was founded, is an 11.5-ligne, self-winding movement with 193 parts and a frequency of 28,800 vph. Its oscillating weight is adorned with the firm’s “H” symbol. There are two versions of the movement. One has a large center-mounted seconds hand and a date display at 6 o’clock; the other has two center-mounted hands and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.
There are 10 models in the new Dressage collection, eight in steel with a black or opaline silver dial and a choice of straps made in house. There are also two versions in rose gold, one with an opaline silver dial, the other a limited edition of 175 pieces (a reference to Hermès’s 175th anniversary this year) with a matte graphite dial. The price for the steel watch shown here is $10,600. (Click on photos for larger images.)
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