Longines has once again dipped into its archives to revive a watch design for its burgeoning, vintage-look Heritage collection. The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is based on a timepiece exclusive to the French Navy, borrowing its warm colors and subdued aesthetic from the Longines 5574, which served Navy crews during shallow diving missions in the late 1940s. It follows an array of re-issued aviation and military references in the Heritage collection, including the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch 90th Anniversary, created for American pilot Charles Lindbergh, and the Longines Twenty-Four Hours, a watch designed for Swissair pilots in the 1950s.
The modern timepiece has a case diameter of 38.5 mm, increased from that of its predecessor (pictured below), whose case measured 33.5 mm in diameter. The new model’s caseback, like its 1947 predecessor, references the Marine Nationale, or French Navy: the original used a simple “MN” inscription for “Marine Nationale,” whereas the new timepiece spells out the entire name, along with the watch’s reference number, water resistance, and other stats.
The golden opaline dial, like its predecessor, bears the words “LONGINES FAB SUISSE,” the latter phrase an abbreviation of Fabrique Suisse (French for “Swiss Factory”), in black-colored lettering, underneath the painted Arabic hour numeral at 12 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are slightly larger than their predecessors, more extensive, and baton-shaped in blue steel, replacing the vintage watch’s black-colored hands. A domed sapphire crystal sits above the dial, protecting its face; the hour numerals and hands are coated in a brown-colored Super-LumiNova.
The original watch, issued in 1947, housed Longines’ historical, hand-wound movement, Caliber 12.68N. Replacing it inside the new watch is the automatic Caliber L888.5, based on the ETA A31.L11. This COSC chronometer-certified movement features an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, runs in 21 jewels, and offers a substantial power reserve up to 64 hours while beating at a frequency of 25,200 vph.
The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale (Ref. L2.8188.8.131.52) comes on a cognac-colored leather strap and retails for $2,000; it will be available at authorized Longines dealers later this year. For more information, click here.
|Manufacture:||Longines Watch Co., Francillon Ltd., Les Longines, 2610 Saint- Imier, Switzerland|
|Model:||Heritage Military Marine Nationale|
|Movement:||Longines Caliber L888.5, automatic, ETA base, COSC chronometer-certified, anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, 21 jewels, 25,200-vph, 64-hour power-reserve|
|Functions:||Hours, minutes, seconds|
|Case:||Stainless steel, water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)|
|Strap & Clasp:||Cognac-colored leather strap|
|Dimensions:||Diameter = 38.50 mm|