The power reserve is more novelty than necessity on the modern watch, however, as it is powered by a self-winding movement, Ulysse Nardin’s Caliber UN-118, designed in-house and visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback. This caseback viewing window is also a departure from the design of the original Torpilleur models, which had solid, engraved casebacks. As one would expect from a watch of this pedigree, this movement boasts a COSC chronometer certification as well as Ulysse Nardin’s in-house certificate, indicating that it has passed a series of tests for timekeeping precision. In addition to the aforementioned lengthy power reserve, its technical highlights include an escapement made of a material called Diamonsil, which consists of synthetic diamond grown on a silicon base; an oscillator with a patented inertial balance wheel, and the patented silicon hairspring. The partially openworked rotor is enhanced with Ulysse Nardin’s nautically inspired anchor motif.
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Semper Fortis, mounted on a blue sailcloth strap with four oversized white stitches, is limited to 173 pieces — one for each year since Ulysse Nardin founded his eponymous company in 1846. (For those unaware, “torpilleur” is a French term for a small, swift-moving torpedo boat and “Semper Fortis,” a Latin phrase meaning “Always Strong,” is the motto of the U.S. Navy, similar to the more familiar “Semper Fi” motto of the U.S. Marine Corps.) Priced at $7,900, and dropping in late September, the watch will be exclusively sold in the United States.