Perpetual Calendar

Four Faces Have I: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the Most Complex Reverso Ever

Back in 2006, Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Reverso Hybris Mechanica a Triptyque, possessed of three faces and a multitude of built-in horological complications. The most complicated evolution yet of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoulte’s legendary and enduring two-faced timepiece born in 1931, it prompted many of us who cover the watch industry to wonder if the venerable Swiss...

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Apr 30, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Perpetual Pilots: IWC Launches Perpetual Calendars in Big Pilot’s Watch and Top Gun “Mojave Desert” Collections

As it does most years, IWC used its time in the watch trade-fair spotlight in 2021 to refresh one of its six major collections. At the recently concluded Watches & Wonders virtual event, the company expanded its ever-popular Big Pilot’s Watch series with the release of the first 43-mm, blue-dialed Big Pilot models as the...

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Apr 28, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-001 In-Line Perpetual Calendar Brings a Novel Display to the Calatrava Collection

Patek Philippe’s most buzz-generating release at its inauguaral Watches & Wonders appearance earlier this month was undoubtedly the green-dialed Nautilus that marked the finish line for the production of that sport-luxury reference. But the manufacture’s most technically significant new model, which made its debut in the wake of that release, came from its venerable, classically...

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Apr 27, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Vacheron Constantin Embraces Gold and High Complications in Three New Overseas Models

Alongside its other notable releases at the recently concluded Watches & Wonders exhibition, Vacheron Constantin added to its popular Overseas sport-luxury range two white-gold perpetual calendars and a rose-gold tourbillon. The updates follow-up 2020’s rose-gold Overseas Self-Winding, and rose-gold perpetual calendars, bringing even more higher-tier complications to the expanding Overseas collection. Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin...

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Apr 26, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

Bulgari Sets its Seventh Horological Thinness Record with Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

When it comes to ultra-thin watchmaking, few brands have as much claim to the space these days as Bulgari, and in particular its Octo Finissimo collection. The collection launched in its current form in 2014 and has since blazed a trail of world-record-setting thin watches including the Octo Finissimo Automatic, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, Octo...

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Apr 11, 2021 by Caleb Anderson

A. Lange & Söhne Showcases a Classic High Complication in New Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

Twenty years ago, A. Lange & Söhne produced its very first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar, the Langematik Perpetual. In the years since, the Saxon manufacture has installed the prestigious complication in seven other models, mostly in combination with a chronograph, tourbillon, or both. Unveiled today at watches & Wonders, in a move many would...

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Apr 8, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Inspired by Ancestry: Exploring the Blancpain Villeret Collection

Blancpain’s Villeret collection channels the haute horlogerie roots of the world’s oldest watchmaking brand and continues to innovate with an array of grand and practical complications. We explore the collection’s origins, as well as its historical and modern highlights, in this feature from our October 2020 issue. The author Thomas Wolfe is often credited with...

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Mar 24, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

PORTFOLIO

Eternal Time: 6 Modern Perpetual Calendar Watches

In modern watchmaking, a perpetual calendar indicates the date, and corrects automatically for months with less than 31 days, as well as leap years. Unless the movement takes into account century years that are not leap years, a perpetual calendar will need manual adjusting in 2100, 2200 and 2300. Usually, a perpetual calendar combines additional complications (a moon-phase, for example). From WatchTime's February 2018 issue, here are six watches that are (almost) ready for eternity.

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Mar 8, 2021 by WatchTime

Strength in Numbers: Five Watches with Big Date Displays

Some watch connoisseurs find date displays of any kind on a watch dial distracting, unnecessary, and disruptive to a harmonious design. Others not only appreciate them, but also want them to be as legible and prominent as possible. For the latter group, we’ve assembled this list.

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Feb 26, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Overseas Mission: The History and Evolution of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin’s sport-luxury Overseas collection, tracing its roots to an anniversary model in the 1970s, has become a versatile and resolutely modern cornerstone of the historical maison’s portfolio. The mid-1970s are widely regarded as a regrettable era for fashion, but one fashion accessory, the wristwatch, was having what is now acknowledged as a renaissance. More...

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Feb 22, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

Hermès Turns a New Calendar Page with Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium

Five years after introducing the first perpetual calendar model to its elegant Slim d’Hermès collection in 2015, La Montre Hermès follows up that rose-gold-cased timepiece with two new models that marry precious-metal bezels — one in 5N rose gold, the other in 950 platinum — to bead-blasted grade 5 titanium cases. Here’s a closer look...

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Feb 18, 2021 by Mark Bernardo

2020, The Watch Year in Review: 5 Superlative Perpetual Calendars

It goes without saying: 2020 was far from an ideal year for most of us. Looking back, however, it was also a year that brought many noteworthy watch launches despite the huge obstacles posed by the pandemic and its effects on the world economy. As we look ahead hopefully to 2021, it’s time for our...

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Dec 30, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Brings Zirconium to Watchmaking

MB&F founder Max Büsser is known for being bold and daring in his watch concepts, but the newest “horological machine” might represent the boldest idea yet — making a watch case out of a material that has been known to spontaneously ignite in its powdered form. But the zirconium case is just one notable facet...

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Oct 16, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

Showing at WatchTime Live 2020: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Limited Edition

Chopard’s L.U.C collection, named for the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, represents what the maison calls its “epitome of fine watchmaking.” Fewer models exemplify that spirit more spectacularly than the L.U.C Perpetual T, which combines two of high horology’s most complex mechanisms: a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. The latest evolution of this timepiece, garbed...

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Oct 9, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

New Heights: Frederique Constant Re-Introduces the Highlife Collection

Twenty years ago, Frederique Constant introduced its original Highlife collection, which featured an integrated strap built into a distinctive case. Now the Geneva-based brand introduces a modern update to the collection, applying the concept to three new models: the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Highlife Heart Beat, and Highlife Automatic COSC. Each model features a strap-and-bracelet...

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Sep 13, 2020 by Corey Vlahos

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon Leads a Trifecta of High-End Complications

To the relief and delight of many a watch aficionado, Swiss high-complication specialist Patek Philippe has unveiled three new timepieces for 2020, after the maison initially indicated that it would push most or all of its planned releases to 2021 in response to the pandemic and its economic fallout. The first and most noteworthy is...

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Jul 22, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

The Music of Time: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Striking Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin has given its series of one-of-a-kind chiming watches the poetically evocative name “La Musique du Temps,” and this year’s addition to that ultra-exclusive collection may be the most ambitious yet.

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May 30, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

IWC Portugieser Collection Reaches New Pinnacles with Two Tourbillon-Equipped Complications

The new releases from Schaffhausen-based IWC are highly anticipated each year, and 2020 is no different. Most years, the Swiss brand trains its focus on revitalizing specific collections, and this year the popular Portugieser family is the one in the spotlight. We’ve previously reviewed the new pieces in the Portugieser Yacht Club sub-family; today we...

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May 5, 2020 by Caleb Anderson

Baume & Mercier Builds on the Baumatic with New Day-Date/Moon-Phase Models

Baume & Mercier marked a milestone in its 190-year history with the 2018 launch of the Baumatic, its first in-house-developed movement, inside a three-hand date timepiece of the same name. Last year, the Swiss brand upped the ante by adding a module to the Baumatic base to produce an impressive — and, at just shy...

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Apr 29, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

NEWS

Greubel Forsey QP à Équation Debuts in Rose Gold with Chocolate Dial

Greubel Forsey introduced its seventh "Invention Piece," the QP à Équation, in 2015, adding a rhodium-dialed Millésime edition in 2017. This year, the extraordinarily complex timepiece debuts in a new version with an 18k rose gold case and a chocolate-colored gold dial.

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Mar 21, 2020 by Mark Bernardo

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