Kicking off our annual tradition of recapping some of the most notable stories and watches from the year, today we’re talking about the watch world’s most common complication (after a simple date aperture, that is), in the chronograph. Equipping sports watches to formal pieces to everything in between, the chronograph is a complication as useful in function as it in in classic aestheticism. Among the notable releases are those from Omega, Baltic, TAG Heuer, and more. Enjoy!
Omega Speedmaster ’57 Updates
Kicking off our year in review is Omega, which reapproached its renowned Speedmaster ’57 this year nearly a decade after its original debut, this time opting for a slimmer profile. The updated collection consists of eight steel models with a diameter of 40.5mm and a height of 12.99mm, dimensions made possible by the brand’s new Master Chronometer caliber 9906. The movement is capable of 60 hours of reserved power and operates two symmetrical sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock in addition to a date aperture at 6 o’clock.
Retail pricing for the Omega Speedmaster ’57 begins at $8,300 for models presented on a strap and $8,600 models secured by a steel bracelet.
Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax Special Edition
Among the plethora of unique collaborations to debut this year was one between French watchmaker Baltic and Peter Auto, a Parisian-based auto events organizer. Expressing the interconnectedness of horology and classic car enthusiasm, the Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax Special Edition has a style punctuated by a black aluminum tachymeter scale on its bezel, with the function allowing a theoretical driver to measure speeds up to 200 km/h. Within the bounds of the 39.5mm in steel case is a three-counter chronograph configuration that is powered by the Sellita SW510-M.
The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax Special Edition retails for €1,975 (approximately $1,990) and comes with a pair of flyback stopwatches inspired by the design of the Tricompax. The release was limited to 300 pieces, though has since been followed-up by a regular production release available in black and white styles.
Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic
On display at this year’s WatchTime New York was the new Highlife Chronograph Automatic from Frederique Constant. The brand introduced three iterations of the watch in June of this year, including two steel editions and one two-tone version, that are each part of a resurgence of the Highlife collection. The characteristic case design has a 41mm footprint and an exhibition caseback on the reverse that is revealing of the FC-391 automatic movement. On the globe-inspired and decorated dial, the Highlife Chronograph Automatic features a straightforward layout of small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.
The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic is available via the brand’s boutiques and website with pricing marked at $3,795.
TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial
TAG Heuer has not shied away from dipping its designs into the world of color in recent years, with the latest example, the Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition, making its debut in August of this year. Taking shape in a rich crimson, the dial includes the signature design code of the tri-compax layout, one that is primarily focused on functionality and readability. The case silhouette of the Carrera collection remains consistent, though this time taking shape in 39mm to house the Caliber Heuer 02, which is visible via exhibition caseback.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition is priced at $6,750, with production limited to 600 pieces.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Lupin the Third, Final Edition
Zenith proved its interest in perfecting the contemporary chronograph with its Chronomaster collection, with an example of this work coming in the form of the limited-edition novelty Chronomaster Revival A384 Lupin the Third, Final Edition. Inspired by Japanese manga and anime series, Lupin the Third, the watch takes a playful approach to design with an unusual diagonally split dial. With a layout of three symmetrical subdials and a unique date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, the watch is powered by Zenith’s El Primero 400 Automatic movement.
The final edition of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Lupin the Third will be limited to 250 total examples, with pricing marked at $10,000. At its launch it was available via Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers.
Taking inspiration from the world of Sound and Hi-Fi this year was French watchmaker Reservoir with the release of the Sonomaster Chronograph in silver and black versions. The watch features a “Bi Retrograde” display, with two half-moon-shaped areas contrasting the main dial and creating space for date and seconds windows. The unique functionality of this particular manufacture bi-retrograde chronograph is achieved by the caliber RSV-Bi120, which offers a power reserve of 60 hours.
The Reservoir Sonomaster Chronograph is available for purchase via the brand’s online store and authorized retailers, with pricing marked at $6,350 on a leather strap, and at $6,750 on a steel bracelet.
Glashütte Original Diver chronograph
Closing out our chronograph recap is the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph that made its debut in the latter half of 2022. The SeaQ Chronograph is the first dive watch from the brand to include chronograph functionality, one that is powered by the brand’s caliber 37-23, a movement that optimizes resistance, precision, and user-friendliness. The watch boasts a power reserve of 70 hours and features a simple dial layout with two symmetrical subdials.
The SeaQ Chronograph from Glashütte Original is available with variations presented on a rubber strap (ref. 1-37-23-01-81-33), a gray fabric strap (ref. 1-37-23-01-81-34), a blue fabric strap (ref. 1-37-23-01-81-36), and a steel bracelet (ref. 1-37-23-01-81-70). Pricing starts at $13,900 on rubber or fabric strap, and $14,800 on the bracelet.
Feeling inspired? Check out this article from our WatchTime editors about the 10 things you should know before buying a chronograph.