WatchTime New York 2021 is less than a month away, returning for the sixth time to Midtown Manhattan’s Gotham Hall on October 22-24. Among the more than 25 participating watch brands set to display their newest timepieces is historical haute-horology watch maison Breguet, which will be showcasing its recently refreshed Marine Collection.
After a relatively quiet first half of 2021, Breguet this past summer made us all take pause when the brand sailed back onto the scene with the debut of its updated Marine Collection. The latest refresh includes three new watches, the rose-gold Marine 5517, blue-dialed Marine Chronographe 5527, and Marine Alarme Musicale 5547, which at their debut followed the last expansion of the collection a year prior, in June 2020. Thus, for the second year in a row and to seemingly positive effect, Breguet capitalized upon summertime sentiment to garner interest in its sportiest collection.
Like all the Marine watches launched since the collection’s last major update in 2017 (and its further expansion in the year following), each of the new models maintains a classic, naval chronometer-inspired design, taking foremost influence from founder Abraham-Louis Breguet’s time as a chronometer maker to the French Navy. Distinguished by both luxurious and sporty elements, the watches host an array of signature hallmarks, both of the collection and its parent brand: Roman numerals, solid water resistances, and Breguet-style hands, to name just a few.
Breguet Marine 5517
The Marine 5517 in 18k rose gold case and bracelet is a three-hand time-and-date watch, also available in titanium with a blue dial. With a diameter of 40 mm and thickness of 11.5 mm, the piece is sized well on the wrist, its sharp, geometric crown guards and integrated lugs providing for an uncommon silhouette. The case’s finishes are primarily brushed, with accents of polish and fluted sides. A stepped bezel atop the case secures the sapphire crystal. Speaking to the sporty style of the 100-meter water resistant piece, it is secured to the wrist via a textured rubber strap, though Breguet also offers both a matching rose-gold bracelet and a leather strap as alternative options.
Underneath the crystal is the distinctive dial, with the contrasting colors and textures that have come to define the Marine collection. Around the outer edge, a curved outer ring is mirror-polished, reflecting the lume-filled rose-gold-applied Roman numerals for each of the hours and providing an outline for the lume-accented minute ring. As the transition is made from the outermost section of the dial to the innermost, we find three textures: from sunburst to brushed to a unique, engraved wave motif recalling the watch’s nautical inspirations. At the center of the dial, a set of brand-signature Breguet hands indicate the hour and minute, while a pointer with a skeletonized counterweight counts the passing seconds. Overall, the style of the dial is intriguing and funky — a little disorienting at first glance with its sea-wave engravings and oblong date indicator, but obviously refined and meticulously planned.
Powering the 5517 is the Breguet Caliber 777A, which is best known for containing an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, as well as for using a silicon balance spring. The movement is capable of a 55-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vph.
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
The Marine Chronographe 5527 — as its name indicates, the chronograph version of the base Marine design — uses a 42.3-mm by 13.85-mm titanium case, and is thus lighter and sportier in style than its its rose-gold three-hand sibling despite sharing the same base design. The most significant change in terms of its case is that the 5527 comes standard on an H-link titanium bracelet, and features two ovular chronograph pushers. The former is able to be switched out for a leather or rubber strap, and the latter enables ease of use for the chronograph functionality displayed on the watch’s dial. The watch is also available in a rose-gold variation with the engraved wave motif dial rather than the blue sunburst dial of the titanium version.
The configuration of the Chronographe’s dial again is similar to that of the time-and-date model, with the luminous outer minute ring, mirror-finished outer curved edge, and applied Roman numeral hour markers. Here, however, we also see variously sized subdials for the chronograph displays accenting and contrasting the sunburst surface of the dial — 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at 12 o’clock. The noticeable, oblong date indicator of the Marine family has been placed on this dial at the 4:30 position.
The Breguet Caliber 582QA that powers the Chronographe model is an automatic movement which, like the 777A, features an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns and a silicon balance spring. As a result of its increased power consumption via its chronograph functionality, the movement stores a somewhat reduced power reserve of 48 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Rounding out the trio of new releases is the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547, which features a mechanical alarm functionality as its primary draw. Like the other two watches, the 5547 is housed in the signature geometrical case, here measuring 40 mm in diameter by 13.05 mm thick, and sporting various crowns and pushers to operate the timekeeping and alarm functionality visible on the dial. The showcased version is the titanium-cased, blue-dialed edition, though the brand will also offer a version with a slate dial with a rose-gold case and bracelet (below).
The dial is in the same blue shade used for the chronograph and hosts subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock position, the former showcasing the alarm functionality and the latter displaying a second time zone. Another dial detail of note is the additional power reserve indicator that Breguet has added toward the 12 o’clock position, underneath the partially applied logo. The vertically positioned oblong date window rests steadily in the asymmetrical style of the dial at the 6 o’clock position.
The Breguet Caliber 519F/1, beating inside the watch and visible behind a sapphire caseback, drives the various complications of the Marine Alarm Musicale 5547, equipped with an inverted silicon in-line lever escapement and silicon balance spring and oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vph to maintain a power reserve of 45 hours.
Pricing and Availability
Each of the new Breguet Marine models are available now at authorized boutiques, with pricing set at $28,600 for the rose-gold Marine 5517 and $17,300 for the titanium; $21,500 for the titanium Marine Chronographe 5527 and $33,800 for the rose gold; and $28,600 for the titanium Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 and $39,900 for the model in rose gold.
To learn more, visit Breguet, here. And to see the refreshed Marine Collection live and in person, in addition to many more great watches launched this year, be sure to join us at WatchTime New York 2021 next month. To learn more and purchase tickets, click here!