Breguet rolled out a major revamp of its maritime-influenced sport-luxury Marine collection in 2018 and has been adding colorways and materials to it ever since. The latest evolution of the Marine family, which takes its inspiration from the marine chronometers invented by brand founder Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 18th Century for the French Royal Navy, debuted this week: three popular models, in rose-gold and white-gold cases, now presented on new integrated gold bracelets.
The three models offered in the new precious-metal iterations are the three-hand Marine 5517, the stopwatch-equipped Marine Chronographe 5527, and the mechanical-alarm-bearing Marine Alarme Musicale 5547, which also features a date-and-time indicator for a second time zone. In the spirit of the modern Marine collection’s march toward a more sporty aesthetic, while still maintaining Breguet’s legendary luxurious detailing, each watch is attached directly to a golden bracelet — rose-gold on the silver-dial versions, white-gold for the blue dials — that has been delicately designed to continue the smooth lines of the case and caress the curves of the wrist. Like the round cases, notable for their sculpted lugs and fluted flanks, the bracelets are enhanced with alternation polished and satin-glossed facets.
Common to all three Marine models, in addition to the distinctively fluted cases, are the dials with engine-turned, crested-wave patterns that add to their nautical character; the applied Roman hour numerals with luminous five-minute markers; the faceted, moon-tipped hands with polished finishing; and the seafaring visual motifs on the movements, like the special côtes de Genève on the bridges echoing the look of a ship’s wooden deck, and the rotor, shaped like a ship’s steering wheel.
The movements, as one would expect of Breguet, are showcased behind clear sapphire casebacks. The Marine 5517 contains the self-winding caliber 777A, with 26 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve, which powers the three-hand time display and 3 o’clock date indication. The automatic Caliber 582QA beats inside the Chronographe 5527, containing 346 total components inclusding 28 jewels and amassing a power reserve of 48 hours. The minutes counter for the integrated chronograph function is at 3 o’clock, the elapsed hours counter at 6 o’clock, and the small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock; a date window appears at 4:30. Inside the most complicated model, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547, is Caliber 519F/1, with 376 components (36 jewels) and a 45-hour power reserve. The alarm subdial is at 3 o’clock, the 24-hour subdial at 9 o’clock, the alarm activation aperture at 12 o’clock, and a power reserve display for the alarm between the IX and XII Roman numeral hour markers. The movement uses a pushbutton at 8 o’clock to operate the alarm and incorporates two separate barrels, one providing energy to the main movement, the other to the alarm’s striking mechanism. All the movements oscillate at 4 Hz and use antimagnetic silicon for their balance spring and inverted in-line lever escapement.
The white-gold and rose-gold bracelet versions of the Marine 5517 are priced at $49,100. The Marine Chronographe 5527 is $56,300, and the Marine Alarme Musicale is $60,300.
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Lovely watches with great bracelet design. Unfortunate that there appears to be no yellow gold version. I really am over the plethora of rose gold watches currently available with no yellow gold option. Yellow gold looks much better, particularly in watches with a gold bracelet.