Parmigiani introduced a new version of its familiar Tonda 1950 collection with a new skeletonized movement. Caliber PF 705, the automatic movement powering the new Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette, is just 2.6 mm thick and 30 mm in diameter. It has 144 components, including 29 jewels, a 42-hour power reserve and a frequency of 21,600 vph. Caliber PF 705 uses a platinum micro-rotor, which is visible through the back of the case at the top right. (Thanks to the openworked design, it can also be seen through the front.) An invisible sapphire crystal is placed above the movement and under the hands. It has a metallic rim, which serves to hide the points of contact between the movement and the case and thus giving the watch the appearance of having no dial at all. At the top of this rim you’ll find the Parmigiani Fleurier logo. The case of the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette is 39 mm in diameter and only 7.8 mm thick. It comes in rose gold or white gold and comes on an alligator strap made by Hermes. Click here to read more.
Piaget, the “king of thin,” sets another watch-world slimness record with the Piaget Emperador Coussin 1270S Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Automatic Skeleton: it is the world’s thinnest watch with a skeletonized automatic movement that also features a tourbillon. The watch, part of Piaget’s Black Tie collection, has a cushion-shaped case (hence “coussin,” French for “cushion”) measuring a mere 8.85 mm thick. The movement, Caliber 1270S, is similarly slender, made up of 225 parts (35 jewels) but just 5.05 mm thick. Like the Parmigiani Tonda, this watch has an off-centered, platinum micro-rotor for its automatic winding (most skeleton movements are manual-wound) and a tourbillon topped with a stylized Piaget “P” emblem. These two elements are juxtaposed in a figure eight motif in the upper left of the dial, while the hours and minutes are indicated by off-center hands in the lower right. There are two versions of the Piaget Emperador Coussin 1270S, one in white gold, with black PVD treatment on the screws and micro-rotor; and the other with both the case and the movement in rose gold (pictured below).
Ralph Lauren Watches and Jewelry added pieces to its Automotive collection, whose design was inspired by Lauren’s own 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe. These included a new chronograph as well as the brand’s first openworked watch, the Ralph Lauren RL Automotive Skeleton. The movement, Caliber RL1967, is manually wound and features a black finish on the plate and bridges, echoing the treatment on the shot-blasted stainless steel case. The initials “RL” are set into a black disk offset from the mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock. The black elements of the movement contrast with the steel and brass gear train elements, the large balance wheel, and the sword-shaped hour and minute hands coated with beige Super-LumiNova. Like other timepieces in the Ralph Lauren Automotive line, the bezel is made of amboyna burl, a wood with distinctive swirling grain patterns that has long been used in the interiors of luxury automobiles.
Of all the watch brands exhibiting at SIHH, Roger Dubuis truly went all-in with the skeleton theme this year, declaring 2015 to be the brand’s “Year of the Skeleton.” Among its many openworked offerings (click here for others) was the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Tourbillon, the sportiest of its new models, with a titanium-and-black DLC case and a number of eye-catching, aluminum elements in sports car red, including the bezel ring, crown, and case band. Limited to 188 pieces, the watch contains the RD01SQ caliber (which Roger Dubuis built from the ground up as a skeleton movement rather than simply taking an existing movement and carving elements out of it) and is available with several strap options, Like Roger Dubuis’s other “Astral Skeleton” watches, this one has openworking on the case as well as the movement, and its movement features the “star” motif as well as the spiderweb-like patterns of the bridges that give the watch its “Spider” moniker. To read what our colleagues at the Monochrome watches blog had to say about the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Tourbillon, click here.