Bulgari Time was established in Switzerland in 1980. In 2000, Bulgari took over the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta brands, thus acquiring the ability to make movements. Three years ago, Bulgari joined the LVMH Group, whose watch brands include Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. Last year, Bulgari debuted its first caliber: the BVL 191, which is used in the watch we reviewed. It was developed and is produced in-house: the movement’s components (plates, bridges and wheels) are fabricated at the Bulgari manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds and the movement is assembled at Bulgari’s facility in Le Sentier (the former Daniel Roth factory). As with all of Bulgari’s movements, the “191” refers to the number of components in the caliber. Both watches have sapphire casebacks, which offer a good view of each caliber. Each caseback matches the watch’s styling: the back of the Hermès Dressage is angular and affixed by four screws; the back of the Bulgari Bulgari is round and held in place by eight screws. Both constructions contribute to water resistance to a depth of 50 meters.
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This article was originally published on August 28, 2014, and has been updated.