30 Highlight Watches You’ll See at WatchTime New York 2017, From A to Z

Designed to focus on the essentials of its original Flying Grand Regulator, released in 2016, Chronoswiss created the Sirius Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton, removing large portions of the original dial and making every effort to showcase its intricate movement. At 44 mm in a steel case, with long, straight lugs, an onion crown, and knurled edges on the bezel, the watch sits prominently on the wrist. With an outer raised minute ring and a sole long, curvy minute hand passing over it, the piece is quite unusual in its layered dial construction and use of the hour-and-minute-hand style known as poire stuart. The movement, visible through both the front and caseback of the timepiece, is the hand-wound Chronoswiss Caliber C. 677S, capable of a 40-hour power reserve.

Czapek is named for François Czapek, a 19th-century Polish watchmaker who opened what is believed to be the first haute horlogerie boutique on France’s famed Place Vendôme. Hence the name of the Place Vendôme Tourbillon Suspendu, which features the unconventional dial layout with two subdials at 4:30 and 7:30 — for the tourbillon cage and a “dragging” second-time-zone disk — and a third subdial at 12 o’clock to display the time. Between the lower subdials is a counterclockwise-rotating day-night disk. A power reserve display is integrated into the 12 o’clock local-time subdial, which is made of grand feu enamel and has blued fleur de lys hands sweeping over Roman numerals. Czapek also refers to these new models, one in platinum, the other in rose gold, as “Lumières,” a reference to both the Age of Enlightenment, the era in which the tourbillon was invented, and the reflections flashing off the beveled edges of the dial-side bridges.

The Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Stars Manufacture was designed by the brand’s co-founder, Aletta Stas. This eye-catching moon-phase display on the dial is surrounded by a dazzling field of printed stars. The dial of the rose-gold-plated version is sunray night blue, with the stars rose gold-colored to match the hue of the 38.8-mm case. Under the hood is the new FC-701 in-house movement, which is on display under a see-through caseback. Decorated with perlage and côtes de Genève details, it features an easy-adjust system that allows all of the watch’s functions, including the moon-phase indication, to be set and regulated by the crown.

Glashütte Original’s Senator Chronograph Panorama Date has a deep black dial featuring high-contrast white print, and its hands, applied indices, and applied Roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock — all made of white gold — are treated with a bright blue-tinted Super-LumiNova. Inside the 42-mm steel case is Glashütte Original’s manufacture Caliber 37, with a fully integrated flyback function and controlled by a column wheel. Among the movement’s technical innovations is its one-part lever, which makes for more secure switching and reduces the susceptibility to errors; a space-saving coupling clutch that uses an oscillating pinion; and four gold screws on the balance wheel, in place of a traditional regulator, for more precise adjustment. Fully wound, it stores an impressive power reserve of 70 hours.

The new Graham Chronofighter Vintage GMT is a modern automatic chronograph and GMT watch with a few vintage influences — all in all, a large timepiece with a prominent wrist presence. The thick, 44-mm steel case noticeably has a left-sided chronograph configuration with an enlarged pusher toward the top of the watch, and a complex trigger mechanism towards the middle, combining a co-axial onion crown and a push-button. The detail-rich case also adds thick lugs and a toothed unidirectional outer bezel to assist with the GMT function of the piece. Inside the watch, and powering all its various functions, is the caliber G1733 automatic chronograph movement, which is a Graham-modified Valjoux 7750.

Grand Seiko — which this year became independent of the larger Seiko brand – will have among its showcase pieces the new Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s — the first-ever mechanical Grand Seiko dive watch. Designed with saturation diving in mind, it features the valve-free helium-resistance technology pioneered by Seiko in some of its earliest divers’ watches, which uses an exceptionally heavy-duty case construction and an L-shaped gasket. Both the case and the titanium bracelet boast clean, mirrored edges thanks to Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing technique. The self-winding movement boasts a frequency of 36,000 vph (10 beats per second), which contributes to the watch’s outstanding precision of -3 to +5 seconds per day, the necessary benchmark for all Grand Seiko movements. The movement has 37 jewels and a power reserve of 55 hours.

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon has an 18k rose-gold, 43 mm case, and is graced with an ivory enamel dial and an applied, satin-finish, rose-gold circular ring surrounding the moon-phase aperture. The moon-phase disk, nestled inside the circular scales for the seconds and the hand-type date indicator, is made of either blued steel or onyx, with tiny gold stars and a realistic-looking gold moon that rotates clockwise in faithful tune with the actual moon’s lunar cycles. The double-level structure of the dial aids in legibility, while a corrector positioned in the side of the case at 8 o’clock — operated by a stylus that is included with each watch — makes adjustments of the moon-phase easy.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph has a classical, vintage-inspired dial and contains a self-winding, manufacture Caliber 751G mechanical movement. Most importantly, the Master Chronograph has undergone the battery of rigorous tests necessary to earn Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “1000 Hours Control” in-house certification — a process that was inaugurated 25 years ago for the first Master Control timepieces but which has since been extended to all of the brand’s models. This sport-luxury timepiece has a 40-mm diameter case, 11.7 mm thick and water-resistant to 50 meters. Its movement offers a 65-hour power reserve.

The Longines Legend Diver is a sporty piece from the vintage-inspired Heritage collection. The 42-mm stainless steel case replicates the lines of the crowns — one for winding the watch, the other for operating the internal rotating divers’ bezel, another feature of the original model. Both the crowns and the caseback are screwed, helping to ensure a professional-grade water resistance level of 300 meters. Under a solid caseback ticks the movement, Longines’s automatic Caliber L633, with 25 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vph, and a power reserve of 38 hours. In addition to the steel Milanese mesh bracelet pictured here, the watch is also available on a matte black, textured, cowhide leather strap with a buckle or black rubber strap with a double security clasp with divers’ extension.

MB&F’s Horological Machine No. 7, aka “Aquapod,” combines a radially symmetric design inspired by a jellyfish with a flying tourbillon and some elements of a classical divers’ watch. Developed entirely in-house, the movement features a winding rotor, mainspring barrel, hour and minute indicators, and flying tourbillon. Energy generated by the tentacle-like rotor at the bottom travels up to the tourbillon regulator at the top via a series of gears that allow the power to transition from level to level in the manner of climbing stairs. All in all, the movement contains 303 components, holds a 72-hour power reserve, and is available in a grade 5 titanium case with blue ceramic bezel (pictured) or in an 18k 5n rose gold case with black ceramic bezel.