SIHH 2018:

De Bethune’s Steel Wheels

De Bethune is one of those watch brands that pretty much everyone in the industry can appreciate. Like many independent marques, what the brand lacks in production capacity, it more than makes up for in horological capability.

This year, the 16-year old brand based out of Geneva introduced a new take on its award-winning DB28 timepiece. Limited to 25 total pieces, the DB28 Steel Wheels exposes the twin barrels — that ensure a six-day power reserve — and gear train at the heart of the Caliber 2115V4. At its simplest, the Steel Wheels is identical to previous iterations of the award-winning DB28 timepiece that collectors adore but with an open-worked dial. However, it features a few small, yet significant, details that help it stand out from its older siblings.De Bethune Steel Wheels

The hour hand is translucent and made from blued-steel rimmed sapphire in order to view the movement. The hour markers, like previous DB28 iterations, resemble small ball bearings and are constructed of steel. At 6 o’clock, you can spot the steel moon phase that is made from two halves of palladium and blued steel. Blued steel is a full-fledged design code here as it also forms the chapter ring that runs along the edge of the dial and beneath the hour markers and ratcheted minute indices, the minute hand, and around the hour hand. Above the moon phase and beneath the center of the watch is a titanium, polished bridge that is situated above the balance wheel with gold weights. The case itself is entirely constructed of titanium meaning the timepiece is extremely lightweight. The watch is the same size as previous DB28 models, coming in at 42.6 mm.

De Bethune Steel Wheels

Other details of the movement worth noting include the De Bethune balance spring with a flat terminal curve, a silicon escape wheel, a triple pare-chute shock absorbing system, and the aforementioned titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts.

De Bethune Steel Wheels


The De Bethune Steel Wheels is priced at 83,000 CHF, approximately $88,340 USD at the time of publishing.

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  1. Debashish

    This De Bethune looks simply stunning, but reading time at a glance will be a bit tough.

    Though the price of this De Bethune stunner is still unknown, I am certain it will cost an arm and a leg, if not even more.

    Well Logan, I wish there were some more pictures, as majority of us won’t be able to acquire this De Bethune, we would love to satisfy ourselves through those pictures instead.

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