Vacheron Constantin has announced the newest addition to its historically inspired Traditionnelle collection of timepieces. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar combines two high complications and features an all-new in-house movement and a 950 platinum case.
The new watch, which is available at retail now at Vacheron Constantin boutiques, has all of the recognizable design characteristics of the Traditionnelle family, including a stepped case with distinctive fluted pattern on the back, dauphine-style hands, and a railway-type minute track around the dial, the latter paired up on this watch’s dial with a white tachymeter scale.
The dial is distinguished by its various shades of gray, with different finishes for different function displays — a layout that reflects those of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. The main dial is slate-colored with an opaline finish, while the small seconds subdial (at 9 o’clock) and chronograph minutes counter (at 3 o’clock) are bordered by circular-brushed rings and have snailed centers. The moon disk — in the center of the dark gray-rimmed date subdial at 6 o’clock — is made of 18k white gold and hand-finished with two stylized moon faces, one smiling, the other melancholy, which follow the moon’s monthly cycles. The applied hour indices are also in white gold. This design is also reminiscent of historical pocketwatches.
Vacheron Constantin developed the watch’s manual-winding movement, Caliber 1142 QP, entirely in-house at its Swiss manufacture; it replaces the movement used previously in the brand’s chronograph-perpetual calendar watches, Caliber 1141 QP. The new movement, which is on display through a clear sapphire caseback, is composed of 324 components, including 21 jewels, oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz), and carries a power reserve of 48 hours. It powers the watch’s perpetual calendar functions, which include indications of the date, day, month, leap year and moon phases, as well as its chronograph functions, with a column-wheel system controlling a direct-drive seconds hand and a 30-minute totalizer. The calendar should not need any adjustments until March 1, 2100.
Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers developed Caliber 1142 QP with the energy constraints of a chronograph function, and minimizing their impact on the power reserve, in mind. The oscillation frequency of the balance has also been raised from 2.5 to 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour) so as to increase reliability and shock resistance. Like all Vacheron Constantin watches, both the movement and the finished timepiece meet the stringent criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva, the recognized emblem of Geneva watchmaking excellence.
The 950 platinum case of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar measures 43 mm in diameter and 12.94 mm thick. It is fitted with a hand-stitched, large-scaled Mississippi alligator leather strap secured by a polished, 950 platinum folding clasp that evokes the shape of Vacheron’s Maltese Cross logo. It is priced at $150,000.