Chronoswiss, whose stock-in-trade is the regulator watch, continues to develop new and intriguing variations on that 19th-century device in its increasingly colorful collection of Flying Grand Regulator wristwatches. The first Open Gear versions of the model, which placed wheels and bridges on the front of the dial in an openworked configuration, debuted in 2018, and this year the Lucerne-based brand takes this design to the next level with the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear Retrograde Second, or ReSec, one of the Lucerne-based brand’s showcase pieces at the upcoming WatchTime New York event in October.
Measuring 44 mm in diameter and 13.35 mm thick, the 17-piece case — in 18k rose gold, stainless steel or DLC-coated steel — houses Chronoswiss’s automatic Caliber C.301, designed to bring attention to its dial side, with skeletonized gear train bridges screwed firmly to the front, along with the funneled subdial at 12 o’clock hosting the off-center hours display, the large central minutes hand, and the model’s namesake function, the retrograde seconds display at 6 o’clock, with a hand sweeping across a 120-degree scale, jumping back to zero once every 30 seconds. The colors of the case carry over seamlessly into the dial — which is essentially, in the Open Gear design, part of the movement — whose elaborate guilloché motif was executed by hand on a historical rose engine. The dial’s large cylindrical hour indices are made from a mixture of Super-LumiNova and ceramics; and the elongated triangle hands and indices have luminous inlays that glow brightly for optimal nighttime reading.
The watch is attached by curved, shortened lugs designed for comfortable conformity to the wrist, to a hornback crocodile strap that echoes, in either the color of its leather or of its stitching, the tones of the case and dial. The case features Chronoswiss’s hallmark coin-edge motif on its sides, a large onion crown, and a sapphire exhibition caseback offering a rear view of the movement. Caliber C.301 oscillates at 28,800 vph (4 hz), features a power reserve of 42-hours, and winds its mainspring by means of rotor decorated with côtes de Genève, that echoes the color of the case and dial. All five references are limited editions of 50 pieces.
If you’re curious to see and feel these colorful and technically adventurous pieces from Chronoswiss in person, along with hundreds of other new, rare, and interesting timepieces, reserve your tickets now for WatchTime New York 2019!