America’s largest luxury watch show, WatchTime New York, returns to Manhattan’s Gotham Hall on October 14-15 (Click here for event details and to purchase tickets) and features a plethora of luxury watch brands, from large, world-famous manufacturers to innovative independents. Among the latter is Urban Jürgensen, which will showcase its highlight piece from this year’s Baselworld, the Reference 1741 in platinum.
The watch is the most prestigious and complicated piece in the brand’s 1745 collection, named for the birth year of Danish watchmaker Jurgen Jürgensen, father of the even more renowned horological pioneer, Urban Jürgensen, who founded the eponymous brand, which is now based in Bienne, Switzerland. Its crowning aesthetic touch is its hand-crafted, solid silver dial with a Grenage finish — a technique the brand says has not been used on a dial in more than 100 years. The time-consuming, difficult process involves engraving the dial with very shallow recesses for the numerals and other inscribed elements, filling the recesses with lacquer, polishing off the excess material with fine diamond paper, and finishing off the final layer of graining with metal-bristled brushes and a mixture of silver powder and salts, resulting in a noticeably frosted finish.
The domed, Arabic hour numerals are made of white gold while the hands are in yellow gold and blued steel. The three-part case, made of 950 platinum, is 41 mm in diameter and attaches to the leather strap with Urban Jürgensen’s traditional teardrop lugs, which are soldered to the case middle. The top case part secures the domed sapphire crystal and the back screws down and surrounds a flat sapphire window through which the wearer can view the movement.
That movement, based on Urban Jürgensen’s in-house P4 caliber, controls the watch’s array of functions, including hours, minutes, central seconds, and a perpetual calendar with day, date, month, moon-phase, and leap-year display. The golden moon-phase disk, according to the company, requires not less than 20 different operations to create.
The manual-winding caliber in the Ref. 1741 PT (platinum) is outfitted with a Swiss lever escapement, a stop-seconds function, a 21,600-vph frequency, and a 60-hour power reserve from twin barrels. It includes 24 jewels and measures 32 mm in diameter and 6.85 mm in thickness.
The alligator leather strap is available in semi-matte black, brown, or blue, with custom-made sizes (as well as other colors) available on request. The classic C-buckle is in platinum, matching the case (a folding buckle is also optional), and stamped with an Urban Jürgensen logo.
To learn more about the Urban Jürgensen Ref. 1741, to see how it looks and feels on your own wrist, and to discover the brand’s other new pieces, click here to reserve your spot at WatchTime New York.