Seiko presented its Presage collection at last year’s Baselworld. Consisting entirely of watches with mechanical movements, with dial designs based on that of the Seiko Laurel from 1913 (Seiko’s first wristwatch), the first wave of Presage models included two limited-edition pieces with enamel dials. These four new references are the first non-limited Presage watches with enamel dials.
The watches’ enamel dials are made by Japanese master craftsman Mitsuru Yokozawa and his team, whose painstaking work ensures that the enamel’s thickness is adjusted to the exact depth required for each part of the dial, and that the enamel is perfect for its atmospheric conditions at the time of manufacture so that the dials will last, according to Seiko, “for a lifetime or longer.”
The sapphire crystals are dual-curved so that the entire dial surface, including its ridges, can be seen without distortion from any angle. The relief, Roman numeral hour markers — which draw their inspiration from another historic Seiko watch, the 1895 “Time Keeper” pocketwatch — are painted onto the dial at least ten times to lift them elegantly from the surface. The tips of the hands are subtly curved to follow the contours of the sapphire crystals so that the case’s thickness can be minimized. Durable sapphire glass is also used for the exhibition casebacks, which display the watch’s in-house mechanical movements.
The Presage Multi-Hand Automatic (Ref. SPB045, above), contains Seiko’s Caliber 6R27, with a power reserve of 45 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vph. Its functions include central hours, minutes, and seconds; a date calendar on a subdial at 6 o’clock; and an arc-shaped power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 12.8 mm and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The crocodile strap has a three-fold clasp with push-button release. The watch is priced at $1,100.
The Presage Automatic Chronograph (Ref. SRQ023, above) has a 42-mm diameter stainless steel case, 14.9 mm thick, water-resistant to 100 meters, and magnetic-resistant to 4,800 A/m. It is powered by Seiko’s Caliber 8R48, which is equipped with a column-wheel-driven 12-hour chronograph function with vertical clutch system. Its power reserve is 45 hours and its balance oscillates at a 28,800-vph frequency. Mounted on a crocodile strap with a three-fold push-button clasp, the watch is at priced $2,400.
Finally, two new Presage Automatics (Refs. SPB047, above, and SPB049, below) with enamel dials made their debut at Baselworld 2017. Both are in stainless steel cases, housing the Seiko Caliber 6R15, with a 21,600-vph frequency and a 50-hour power reserve. The round-case model (SPB047, priced around 1,100 euros) measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm thick, with a dual-curved sapphire crystal, a see-through sapphire caseback, and a water-resistance of 100 meters. The model with a tonneau case (SPB049, approximately 1,300 euros) measures 46 mm x 39.5 mm and 12.5 mm thick; it has a dual-cylinder sapphire crystal covering the dial and is water-resistant to 50 meters. Both watches have clean, simple three-hand dials with date windows at 6 o’clock. Both come on black crocodile straps with triple-folding push-button clasps. Seiko says the watches will be available in September 2017. The Refs. SPB047 above is priced at $1,000; the price of the Refs. SPB049 below is $1,100.