SIHH 2014 Preview: 3 Tourbillon Watches from Vacheron Constantin, Greubel Forsey, & Ralph Lauren

Greubel Forsey Platinum GMTWith less than two weeks before the 2014 SIHH watch fair kicks off in Geneva, the luxury watch brands exhibiting there continue to send sneak peeks of several new watches set to debut at the show this year. This week, we take a look at three new watches from three very different brands but with one thing in common: all of them have tourbillons.Vacheron Constantin adds another exclusive timepiece to its Collection Excellence Platine, which it launched in 2006. The venerable Swiss brand introduced its Malte Tourbillon in rose gold in 2012, and this year’s version is in a case of 950 platinum. Like other watches in the collection, the Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence also uses platinum for the dial (which has a sandblasted finish), the folding clasp (which is in the style of Vacheron’s Maltese Cross emblem), and even for the threads in the saddle-stitched, dark blue Mississippi alligator leather strap.

The dial has the inscription “Pt 950,” which identifies it as platinum, discreetly placed between 4 and 5 o’clock. Its applied Roman numerals and hour makers are made of white gold. The seconds hand is incorporated into the tourbillon, which has been placed at 6 o’clock, balancing the off-center hours and minutes hands. The tonneau-shaped case measures 38 x 48.24 mm, has a transparent sapphire caseback, and is water-resistant to 30 meters.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon - platinum

The movement in the watch, Vacheron Constantin’s manual-wound Caliber 2795, is in the same tonneau shape as the case. It consists of 169 individual parts, including 27 jewels, and carries a power reserve of approximately 45 hours — nearly two full days. The movement, developed and crafted entirely in Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture, displays a high level of finishing, particularly on its showcase element, the tourbillon carriage, designed to resemble the brand’s Maltese cross emblem. A technique referred to in French as berçage was used in the process of rounding off the tourbillon bar, a process that alone required 12 hours of hand craftsmanship. The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine also meets the standards of the Geneva Hallmark. It will be a limited edition of 50 individually numbered pieces.


Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon - platinum - side
Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon - platinum - back
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