Among its new timepieces unveiled at SIHH 2019, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced the most complicated model yet in its recently revived Toric collection, the Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rétrograde – a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date and an ultra-precise moon-phase. On May 3-4, the watch, which wowed the invitation-only media and retail crowd in Geneva back in January, finds its way to American aficionados for the first time at WatchTime Los Angeles. Here’s a closer look.
The watch features the Toric collection’s characteristic curved case with hand-knurled bezel, here measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and a relatively slender 12.1 mm thick and made of 18k rose gold with a polished finish. The crown of this model is topped with a blue cabochon, while the dial is offered in two distinctively decorative versions: slate gray with a radiating pinecone guilloché effect (a style introduced in the collection’s flagship Toric Chronomètre model also launched at SIHH), and a white-grained finish achieved by a process that is exclusive to Parmigiani Fleurier watchmakers. Inside the case, visible beneath a clear sapphire caseback, is Parmigiani’s manufacture Caliber PF333, the self-winding movement that drives the timepiece’s array of timekeeping and calendar functions.
Those functions are elegantly arranged on the dial as follows: a semicircular date scale around the edge, on which the date is indicated by a red-tipped, center-mounted retrograde hand; hours and minutes on central, partially skeletonized javelin-shaped gold hands, with seconds on a slimmer hand with a crescent moon-shaped tip; day and month in two parallel windows in the center, and leap year indication via a Roman numeral in a small round window at 12 o’clock; and the prominent moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock, executed on an aventurine disk with a starry sky motif and two moons representing both hemispheres.
From a technical standpoint, the Toric Chronomètre Perpétuel Rétrograde is a perpetual calendar with perks. Its date function automatically adjusts the date to precisely the number of days in each month, including Februaries over the course of leap-year cycles, via the use of a month-governing cam equipped with a planetary gear that controls the number of days in February. This highly complex device releases from the central wheel at a precise point in time to jump the date instantly to the first day of the next month. The precision of the moon-phase indication — only one correction is required every 122 years — comes from a complex gear system built into the governing device that itself is integrated into the same module as the date calendar. The watch comes on a tan-colored alligator leather strap provided by Hermes and attaches to the wrist with a rose-gold ardillon buckle.
You can check out the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rétrograde, as well as other notable pieces from the manufacture’s 2019 collection, along with those of 27 other luxury watch brands, at WatchTime Los Angeles. Tickets are on sale now!