Germany’s Nomos Glashütte traces its own origin back to 1990, but the tradition of fine Glashütte watchmaking that it carries on stretches back much farther — 175 years, in fact. The brand commemorates that anniversary with the launch of three limited-edition models of its classical Nomos Ludwig model, whose design elements are derived from historical pocketwatches. Each version is limited to 175 pieces and is regulated and tested by Nomos to chronometer-level precision.
All three of the new models borrow traditional features reminiscent of early pocketwatch designs. Each watch has a polished, enamel-white dial with rounded, tempered-steel blue hands, shaped in the classic leaf form, and bordered by a railroad-style chemin de fer minute track. Circling the outer edge of each watch’s caseback is an engraving spelling out “Limited Edition Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” in dark-gray-colored lettering as well as the watch’s limited-edition number (out of 175).
Powering the watches are the manually-wound Nomos Alpha caliber, which is used in the smallest model, the 35-mm-diameter Ref. 205.S2; the automatic caliber DUW 3001, housed inside the Ludwig neomatik 39-mm model, which boasts a power reserve up to 43 hours; and the automatic Caliber DUW 6101, which ticks inside the Ludwig neomatik 41 Datum, amassing a 42-hour power reserve and driving a date function in addition to the hours, minutes, and small seconds on all three references.
All the movements are visible through sapphire casebacks and include traditional Saxon details like a three-quarter mainplate, tempered blue screws, and ribbed polishing, along with Nomos’s own in-house-designed-and-built “swing system” escapement which it debuted in 2014. The watch and the movement are waterproof (splash-proof) up to 30 meters. The Alpha movement has 17 jewels while both self-winding calibers use 27 jewels.
Along with the features described above, the Ludwig Neomatik 41-mm-diameter model can be distinguished by another aesthetic touch, used for the first time: its square-shaped date window, located at 3 o’clock, displays the date using black-colored Roman numerals.
All three models are subjected to chronometer regulations and will be available through selected Nomos retailers from July. The Ludwig 175 Years model (Ref. 205.S2) retails for $2,260, the Ludwig Neomatik (Ref. 250.S1) model is $3,800, and the Ludwig Neomatik Date model (Ref. 261.S1) is $4,200. All three models come mounted on a black horween genuine shell cordovan strap.