With its dressy Glamour Double Date collection — outfitted with a new exclusive caliber, which in a rarity for the brand is on display behind an exhibition caseback — Tudor reminds us that there’s more to its eclectic and growing collection than the sporty and mega-popular Black Bay and Pelagos dive watch series. Here is what you should know about these elegant, understated gents’ models.
The Glamour Double Date, available in all-steel or steel-and-gold cases, and offered on genuine alligator leather straps, all-steel or steel-and-gold bracelets, depending on model, recalls Tudor’s dress watches of yesteryear: its 42-mm case is defined by its slightly dropped bezel, gentle curves, angled edges, and polished finish. Its water-resistance to 100 meters is secured by a curved sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown.
The dials are available in silver, black, opaline white, or Champagne, and feature a distinctive design utilizing two concentric rings — a central medallion, decorated with a vertical gasdroon motif whose texture subtly catches the light, surrounded by a sunray finished outer ring with elongated, diamond-shaped hour indexes. Luminous-treated baton hands indicate the hours and minutes, while a snailed subdial displays the running seconds at 6 o’clock. The prominent, horizontal, double-date window from which this model derives its name occupies a spot at 12 o’clock, under an applied Tudor shield logo.
The Glamour Double Date is the first timepiece to feature the new MT5641 movement, developed specifically for this collection. Caliber MT5641 (the “MT” stands for “Manufacture Tudor”) is the first of the brand’s small but expanding stable of in-house movements to feature a small seconds indication, and also boasts an instantaneous date change operated directly through the crown. This self-winding, COSC chronometer-certified movement has an openworked rotor with satin-brushed and sandblasted finishes; the bridges alternate between polished and sandblasted surfaces; the variable inertia balance is held by a solid double anchor bridge; and the balance spring is made of non-magnetic silicon. The power reserve is a lengthy, user-friendly 70 hours.
The Tudor Glamour Double Date models are available in the U.S.only by special order, beginning in 2019. Prices range from $3,425 to $5,150.