Last week at SIHH, independent watch brand H. Moser & Cie. debuted a unique dual-cover wristwatch inspired by a late 19th-century pocketwatch from its archives. The timepiece marks the brand’s 10th anniversary.
The Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition case is a pocketwatch-type case crafted in 5N rose gold, measuring 46 mm x 13.6 mm. It is diamond-set (28 diamonds, 0.31 carat) and enameled. Uniquely, there are pocketwatch-style “cloisonné” enamel and guilloché covers, front and back. The wire lugs offer a nod to the past without interfering with the case’s aesthetic. (The vintage pocketwatch that inspired it did not, of course, have lugs.)
Aptly, the dial was made using the “Grand Feu” enamel technique, which harkens back to historical watchmaking, to a period when there were far fewer machines doing the work and most processes were done by hand.
Black Roman numerals mark the hours, with train-track-style rings for minutes and small seconds. The dovetail-shaped hour and minute hands are flame-blued, as well as those for the power reserve and small seconds. The third central hand, which is black, shows the months of the year using the twelve indices, as on the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. A large window at 3 o’clock shows the date, displayed on two disks.
H. Moser & Cie. fitted its Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with a notched crown equipped with the brand’s “Double Pull Crown” system and fitted with a push-button mechanism for opening the upper case cover.
The in-house manufactured H. Moser & Cie Caliber HMC 341 is made with solid 18K gold mainplate and bridges with a matte finish, hand chamfered, set with two diamond end-stones, and featuring a hand-engraved hallmark. The 2.5-Hz, manually wound movement has 28 jewels, and a power reserve that is good for seven days thanks to double barrels. Additionally, there are two functional diamond end-stones in the Incabloc shock absorber.
Each timepiece is paired with a hand-stitched brown crocodile leather strap with a red gold folding clasp with the Moser logo. Like another of Moser’s SIHH launches, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept, he H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage (Ref. 8341-0400) is limited to only 10 pieces. It carries a retail price of $250,000.