What happens when H. Moser & Cie. combines one of its flagship products, the Perpetual 1, with its recently launched Streamliner collection? We found out the answer this week at Geneva Watch Days: the contemporary and innovative Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. Read below to find out all about it.
The year was 2005 when H. Moser & Cie. marked its return to haute horlogerie with the release of its perpetual calendar, the Perpetual 1. The timepiece, like many of others from the Schaffhausen-based brand, was minimalist and understated but packed a whole lot of punch when it came to watchmaking mechanics. In 2021, Moser takes this flagship product forward by reintroducing this complication within the distinctive case of the new Streamliner collection, which was first launched in 2020.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar comes in a 42-mm steel cushion-shaped case, with perfectly round curves that evokes the very first high-speed trains from the 1920s and ’30s whose name it adopts. The case, with its off-center “M”-engraved crown at 4 o’ clock, is set with Moser’s signature gray fumé dial with sunburst pattern. Keeping in tune with the minimalist approach of the brand, the dial is home to a red-and-white outer minute track that follows the motions of the central seconds hand, three-dimensional curved hands with Globolight inserts, a power-reserve hand at 10 o’clock, date at 4 o’clock, and the months represented by the 12 white-decal hour markers. All of these features on the dial are heavily inspired by the elements on car dashboards or measuring instruments.
Covering the dial is a subtly domed glass-box-type sapphire crystal that is repeated on the caseback. Through the see-through caseback, one can view the mechanisms of the Caliber HMC 812 (more on which later). The overall case of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has been designed with much thought and precision. It boasts of harmonious proportions and beautiful aerodynamics — all features which are not limited to the case of the timepiece but also extend to its bracelet. The integrated steel bracelet attached to the timepiece works along the same lines as the rest of the watch. It features fluid lines that are all based on organic forms.
Powering the watch is the hand-wound Caliber HMC 812, which boasts the same advantages as its predecessor in the Perpetual 1, Caliber HMC 341. The only difference between the two is the addition of a direct-drive seconds hand on the new movement. Reading the time and date using the ingenuity of the HMC 812 is fascinating, to say the least. The indices used to mark the months are indicated with the help of the small, red-and-white central hand. The watch has a guaranteed power reserve of 168 hours, displayed at 10 o’clock on the dial via an indicator. At 4 o’clock, a window indicates the date, in large format, thanks to two superimposed disks which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31.
Another interesting design aspect of the watch is the presence of the date window – set at an unusual angle (that results in the numerals to be tilted to 26°) – that changes in a flash at midnight due to the presence of the “Flash Calendar” instantaneous date-changing mechanism. For further clarity, the leap-year indicator is present on the back side of the movement. The movement in the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar also features an ultra-contemporary finish, with the traditional Moser double-horizontal stripes and an anthracite grey rhodium plating.
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pereptual Calendar is priced in the U.S. at $54,900.
A version of this article originally appeared on our sister website, WatchTime India.
Generally, the Streamliner line is awesome. Even this watch is very cool, although the very short month pointer makes me think of tiny T. Rex hands. Over time, I suspect it grows on the owner.
I must have one – even at $57K US!