Panerai has traditionally been one of the most straightforward watch brands when it comes to color options: the ones most commonly spotted in the wild sport the same matte black dials and large white numerals that were used on the brand’s WWII-era models for the Royal Italian Navy. In recent years, however, the Florentine watchmaker has not been immune to the growing color trends, adding blue, brown, and even green dials to its repertoire. This year, Panerai grows its selection of timepieces with military green dials, following up on the trio introduced in 2017, with a quartet of new models from its Radiomir family.
Three of the watches use a 45-mm version of the classic cushion-shaped Radiomir case in AISI 316L stainless steel — a modern iteration of the case Panerai developed in the 1940s for use on underwater missions by Italian Naval frogmen. The green dial of the Panerai Radiomir – 45MM (Ref. PAM00995, $11,200), in the brand’s multilayered “sandwich” construction, hosts a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and beige Super-LumiNova on the numerals and hands. Inside its case, behind a sapphire caseback window, is the self-winding P.4000 caliber, the thinnest movement made by Panerai, which is powered by a bidirectional micro-rotor made of tungsten alloy and stores a three-day power reserve in its two barrels. The watch is mounted on a dark brown “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather strap with contrasting beige stitching, and comes with an additional beige-colored canvas strap.
Going up a notch in complexity is the Panerai Radiomir GMT – 45MM (PAM00998, $12,000), with the same sandwich-style dial, cushion-shaped Radiomir 1940 case with thin polished bezel and integrated lugs, and beige-colored, luminous hands and numerals, and outfitted with Panerai’s Caliber P.4001. This self-winding movement drives the hour and minute display, plus a date indication in a window at 3 o’clock, as well as a second-time-zone indication by means of a central GMT hand and a 24-hour subdial, which shares the 9 o’clock position with the small seconds display and a practical AM/PM indicator. This model’s strap is made of “Assolutemente” suede calf leather with light brown stitching, with an extra canvas strap provided. The micro-rotor-equipped movement also boasts a power reserve of three days, or 72 hours.
The Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve (PAM00999, $12,200) adds an additional function to the GMT and date display of its sibling, a hand-type indicator for the watch’s three-day power reserve at 5:00 on the dial. The movement, Caliber P.4002, is a modified descendant of the P.4001, re-engineered to display this latter indication on the dial side (the P.4001 has a power-reserve display on the back side of the movement). As with the other new models, the dark green dial is framed by a polished bezel and covered by a domed sapphire crystal. Its 100-meter water-resistant case is attached to a “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather strap, brown with beige stitching, which attaches to the wrist with a polished steel buckle.
The big boy of the group, the Panerai Radiomir – 48MM (PAM00997, $13,300) is the only one of the new models with a 48-mm case made of sandblasted, matte black ceramic. It’s also the only one equipped with a manual-winding movement rather than an automatic one. The P.3000 caliber — like the rest, conceived and built entirely in-house at Panerai’s manufacture in Neuchatel, Switzerland — has the same three-day power reserve as the self-winding versions but a slower balance frequency of 21,600 vph (as opposed to 28,800 vph). The dial displays the hours and minutes, on thinner hands than those of the steel models, and a subtle small seconds indication at 9 o’clock. The watch’s Ponte Vecchio calf leather strap is black, echoing the case, with a DLC-coated titanium buckle.