When it comes to ultra-thin watchmaking, few brands have as much claim to the space these days as Bulgari, and in particular its Octo Finissimo collection. The collection launched in its current form in 2014 and has since blazed a trail of world-record-setting thin watches including the Octo Finissimo Automatic, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, Octo Finissimo GMT Chronograph, and most recently the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic. Continuing to set the standard in the industry for ultra-thin watchmaking, the Italian jeweler-watchmaker unveiled the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, and with it its seventh thinness record, at Watches & Wonders this past week.
The watch, as you may have gleaned from its name, is now the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch, replacing the previous record holder, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Bulgari is releasing the watch in both the Octo Finissimo’s now-signature monochrome titanium look, as well as a new platinum-and-blue edition.
The familiar eight-sided Octo Finissimo case is 40 mm in diameter and a svelte 5.8 mm thick, in titanium or platinum, and catches the eye with its multi-faceted, supremely geometric look. The thin but layered-looking case is finished either with an unusual sandblasted finish (for the titanium) or a more traditional satin- and polished-finish (for the platinum). The cases’ crowns are in either titanium, with a ceramic insert, or in white gold on the respective models. Additionally, the titanium model comes standard on a matching tapered bracelet which seamlessly extends the style of the case, while the platinum version is attached to a thin, blue alligator leather strap which matches the color of its dial, and is secured by a platinum pin clasp.
The flat sapphire crystal covers either a monochromatic, sandblasted titanium dial, or an elevated, blue lacquered dial though the configuration on both is the same. With applied or indented numerals along its outer edge for the hours, the various features of the watch’s namesake perpetual calendar are found scattered through the rest of the dial. An analog, retrograde date indicator occupies much of the top segment, with a slim pointer indicating the passing days. Subdials for the date and month are parallel to each other on the lower section, with smaller, matching baton hands. At the very bottom of the dial is the perpetual calendar’s signature feature, its leap year indicator, which shows the user if the watch will put this complication into effect during the current year. At the center of the face are two dauphine-style hands used to indicate the hours and minutes, and no additional hand for running seconds.
Behind the Octo Finissimo’s expansive exhibition caseback, the finely decorated Bulgari Caliber BVL 305 is on full display. The movement is not all that different in its architecture and finishing from previous movements used within the Octo Finissimo line, and that’s a good thing. As for its specs, the movement uses a platinum microrotor for its automatic winding, holds a power reserve of 60 hours, and of course boasts an astoundingly thin profile considering its complexity, just 2.75 mm thick.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar will be available later this year, with the titanium edition set to retail for $59,000 and the platinum version marked at $89,000.
To learn more, visit Bulgari, here.