Bulgari launched its Octo Ultranero collection, consisting of a three-hand timer, a chronograph, and an ultra-thin tourbillon, all with rose gold and black DLC elements. (I reviewed the Chronograph last summer.) Now the brand adds to the collection another version of the Octo Ultranero Velocissimo Chronograph, with an all-black DLC-coated steel bezel replacing its predecessor’s rose-gold one.
Watches in Bulgari’s Octo collection are characterized by their multifaceted, octagonal cases, and the Ultranero models stand out with their predominantly black color schemes with gold highlights. Rose gold is used judiciously in this new model, for the hands, applied hour indices and numerals, and grooved winding crown. The black dial — with subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock for chronograph minutes, chronograph hours, and running seconds, respectively, along with a date window at 4:30 — derives its shiny, polished finish from 20 consecutive layers of lacquer.
Like the original model with a rose-gold bezel, the “All Black” Bulgari Octo Ultranero Velocissimo Chronograph is equipped with an integrated chronograph movement, Caliber BVL 328, which is based on the famous El Primero from Zenith, Bulgari’s sister brand in the LVMH luxury group. The movement, visible through a sapphire window in the black ceramic caseback, has automatic winding, a speedy frequency of 36,000 vph, a silicon escapement and a 1/10-second chronograph function controlled by a column wheel. Like all movements in Bulgari’s Octo watches, it boasts a high level of haute horlogerie finishing, including circular graining, côtes de Genève, and chamfering. The Octo case is 41 mm in diameter, and all hands and applied indices are in rose gold, along with the bezel. The watch comes on a vulcanized black rubber strap with a steel ardillon buckle. Priced at $10,600, it is available now at Bulgari boutiques.