Aquanauts Assemble: Patek Philippe Expands its Sportiest Collection with Aquanaut Chronographs in White Gold

Patek Philippe added the first chronograph-equipped model in its sport-luxury Aquanaut family in 2018, delivering it in a steel case, a gradient black textured dial, and a choice of robust rubber straps. This year, the manufacture adds more color and a higher echelon of luxury to the model, with two new references in white-gold cases and two popular, contemporary colorways, midnight blue and khaki green.

The white-gold cases of both new references of the Aquanaut Chronograph (Ref. 5968G-001 in midnight blue, Ref. 5986G-010 in khaki green) measure 42.2 mm in diameter and 11.9 mm thick and sport the gently-rounded octagonal bezel that is emblematic of the collection, itself drawing influences from Patek Philippe’s more upscale Nautilus family. Alternating satin- and polished finishes adorn its surfaces and flanks, its two-position screw-down crown helps ensure a water-resistance of 120 meters, and its sloping lugs integrate seamlessly into the color-coordinated strap. The crown is embedded between the shoulders of a curving crown protector, which in turn is bordered on each side by two elongated chronograph pushers.

Both dials feature the familiar embossed pattern of the Aquanaut range; the midnight blue dial has a sunburst finish that shades from blue in the center to black at the edges, while the khaki green dial has a more matte, varnished surface. White gold is used for the applied Arabic numerals and indices and the baton hour and minute hands, all of which are coated with Super-LumiNova. Like their 2018 predecessors, the dials feature a 60-minute chronograph-counter subdial at 6 o’clock subtly shaped to echo the softly curved octagon shape of the bezel, and distinguish the chronograph indications (the central sweep seconds, the 1/4-second scale on the flange, and the hand and indices of the 60-minute subdial) in contrasting white. The date appears in a small window at 3 o’clock.

The pusher at 4 o’clock operates the flyback function.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5968G_010 dial-lume
The luminous-coated numerals and hands glow bright green in the dark.

On display behind the sapphire caseback is Patek Philippe’s manufacture Caliber CH 28-520 C, with automatic winding and an integrated flyback chronograph function that combines a classic column-wheel control with a modern vertical disk clutch. The latter device is virtually friction-free and prevents the chronograph hands from bouncing and rebounding when the stopwatch is started and, as an added bonus, allows the center-mounted chronograph hand to also be used as a continually running seconds hand. Thus, using the flyback capability while the chronograph is off allows the user to synchronize the watch with a time signal in the manner of a stop-seconds or “hacking” function. This capability also explains the absence of a small seconds subdial on the dial for running seconds. The 21k gold decorated rotor is etched with Patek’s Calatrava cross emblem.

Patek Philippe Caliber 28-520 C is visible through the caseback.

The dial’s embossed checkerboard pattern is echoed on the matching-colored strap, which Patek says is made of an ultra-resistant composite material that can withstand extreme wear and ultraviolet radiation. It fastens to the wrist with a patented fold-over clasp, made of 18k white gold like the case, which is secured by four independent catches. Both versions of the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph are priced at $69,194.

The octagonal bezel and embossed checkerboard dial motif are typical of the Aquanaut.
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  1. Brad Rhoton

    6/5/21 Saturday 11:30 am Central Standard time
    Where in Houston, TX can I get one?
    Brad Rhoton
    PO Box 41789
    Houston,TX 77241-1789

  2. Hmmm. Not for me. I would consider the steel version but not the type of watch i really look for when i think PP. Ofcourse, these are different times and these are geared to a different type of customer.

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