Since its storied debut in 1976, at the vanguard of the luxury sports-watch revolution, the original three-handed Patek Philippe Nautilus has grown and evolved into an entire collection, now counting among its portfolio models with chronographs, second-time-zone displays, and a patented annual calendar. But perhaps not even the Nautilus’s legendary designer, Gérald Genta, could have foreseen the heights of complication his porthole-inspired, octagonal-bezeled timepiece would achieve at this year’s Baselworld watch fair, as Patek Philippe unveiled the first-ever Nautilus equipped with a perpetual calendar, the ultra-complex Ref. 5740/1G-001.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5740/1G-001 Nautilus becomes not only the first “grand complication” in the Nautilus range, but also, somewhat surprisingly for one of the sportiest models in the overwhelmingly elegant Patek collection, the thinnest perpetual calendar currently produced by the manufacture. The 18k white gold case measures 40 mm in diameter (44.05 mm if you include the crown) and a mere 8.42 mm thick and features satin-finished surfaces contrasting with polished chamfers. The octagonal bezel frames a blue dial adorned with the raised horizontal embossed pattern emblematic of the Nautilus collection, and here also graced with the graduating sunburst pattern that marked the Nautilus 40th anniversary editions in 2016. The baton hands and white-gold applied hour markers, all treated with Super-LumiNova, are joined on the dial by three perpetual calendar subdials: month and leap-year at 3 o’clock, date and moon-phase at 6 o’clock, and day of the week and 24-hour display at 9 o’clock. A close examination reveals the date subdial is slightly larger than the other two, owing to the importance of that indication. The moon-phase display is ultra-precise, deviating from the actual position of the moon by only one day every 122 years.
Inside the slim case ticks a similarly slender movement, Patek Philippe’s self-winding Caliber 240 Q, which is powered by s recessed microrotor made of 22k gold and engraved with the Patek Philippe Calatrava cross emblem and a côtes de Genève pattern. Visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback, the movement is just 3.88 mm thick — including the minuscule 1.35 mm height of the calendar module — and comprised of 275 parts, including 27 jewels. It stores a minimum power reserve of 38 hours, beats at a frequency of 21,600 vph, and boasts a host of exquisite finishes, including chamfered and polished edges on the bridges, that help earn the timepiece the in-house Patek Philippe Seal of quality.
The perpetual calendar indications are easily set and re-set with recessed correctors in the case flanks — day correction at 9 o’clock, date correction between 11 and 12 o’clock, month correction between 12 and 1 o’clock, moon-phase correction at 6 o’clock.The white gold link bracelet, which is elegantly integrated into the case, combines polished central links with satin-finished lateral links and features an all-new, patented foldover clasp design with four independent catches to make opening and closing the clasp easier and to prevent the accidental release of either of the two clasp segments.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G-001 Perpetual Calendar will carry a suggested retail price of approximately $120,000. What do you think of Patek’s newest and sportiest grand complication? Let us know in the comments section below.