At Baselworld this year, Doxa celebrated its 130th anniversary by reviving the much-loved SUB 200 model in steel. However much of Doxa’s Baselworld headlines were dominated by another release —the $70,000 Sub 200 T.Graph in 18k yellow gold — and news of the SUB 200 flew under the radar at first. That didn’t stop it from being deemed interesting enough to pick up a GPHG 2019 nomination in the Challenge category (for watches priced under CHF 4,000).
Originally launched in 1967, the SUB concept is considered by many as the first truly purpose-designed diving watch available to the general public. Besides being rated to a depth of 200 meters, it was the first to feature Doxa’s patented unidirectional rotating bezel with the dual indication of dive time in minutes and depth in meters to avoid decompression stops for a safe return to the surface. The SUB was instantly recognizable because of its orange dial, also a first for a diver’s watch, contrasting with the conventional black or white dials available then.
The reissued SUB 200 is still a three-handed dive watch with a case made of 316L stainless steel and specced to 200 meters of water resistance. With a diameter of 42 mm and 14 mm thin, it is topped by a sapphire crystal that takes on the distinctive shape of the domed plexiglass used back in the day. It features a velvety dial in a number of colorways with baton-type hands, applied indexes and markers on the bezel, all of which are coated with Super-LumiNova beige “Light-Old Radium” to accentuate the vintage character. A date window in contrasting white is placed at 3 o’clock.
The watch is powered by the workhorse ETA 2824-2, a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. The watch is paired with the distinctive beads-of-rice bracelet, also made of 316L steel and featuring a folding clasp with diving extension.
The standard model — available in black, orange, turquoise, silver, yellow, and blue — will be out in November of this year. It’s priced at $950 on a rubber strap and $990 with the bracelet option. A 130-piece, limited-edition version celebrating the 130th anniversary of Doxa (pictured above) will also be available for $1,190 this October.
A version of this article originally appeared on WatchTime Middle East.
People who buy watches don’t buy the CEO of a company. They usually buy the product itself and what it represents.
In Rolex’s case they buy Hans Wilsdorf the creator and his legacy.
How can you compare any Doxa to a Rolex and it’s legacy or any of it’s products past or present ?
Didn’t used to compare and wouldn’t have thought to compare before Rolex stopped producing their sport line watches for a marketing gimmick.
Good going Doxa! Hooray for a company for keeping their vision straight and true to their heritage, unlike Rolex, who continues to spoil their reputation with a ceo who is oblivious. The contrast between the 2 companies is distinctive.
Great watches, tried to order the limited edition, however taxes and shipping costs are not disclosed and when I asked Doxa they were incredibly vague. Bought a Yema Superman GMT instead, all inclusive package, Doxa could learn a lot from Yema.