It was about time: 2023 finally brings a new Type XX, and – on top of that – even an all-new chronograph calibre from Breguet. Issued in two versions, one military inspired, and the other drawing on the brand’s civilian models, these two indeed ‘eagerly awaited new additions to the current collection,’ to quote Breguet’s press release, are currently being delivered to selected retail partners in a Havana-colored leather presentation box reminiscent of an aircraft wing.
According to the archives, things began in the early 1950s when the company, already a specialist in products dedicated to the aviation industry, learned that the French Air Force was looking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch […] It was the Air Ministry that named the future product “Type XX”.
Breguet
Type XX Chronographe Ref. 2067
The Ref. 2067ST/92/3WU is a direct descendant of the civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the permanent second hand is located at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired version further below, the counter at 3 o’clock is sized slightly bigger.
The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with ivory-colored lume, the comparatively large date window is located between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42-mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bi-directional graduated bezel.
Breguet’s Military Heritage: Type 20 Ref. 2057
The new Type 20 Chronographe 2057 (Ref. 2057ST/92/3WU), on the other hand, is heavily inspired by Breguet’s 1100 that was delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as ‘Type 20’ in Arabic numerals (unlike all the others, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name was written ‘Type XX’ in Roman numerals). The black dial has been modernized, the Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute counter located at 3 o’clock is larger than the 60-second counter at 9 o’clock, and a date window has also been added between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42-mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bi-directional bezel and a pear-shaped crown.
A New Engine: Calibre 728
After four years of development, the brand has also been able to equip both new watches with a new self-winding hi-beat movement, the Calibre 728 (350 parts) for the civilian version, and Calibre 7281 for the military version (339 parts), both with flyback function and an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. The movement incorporates all the elements of a modern chronograph such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency as well as an innovative zero-resetting activation system (and is, according to Breguet, ‘protected by several patents’). The balance-spring, the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. In addition to the sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, circular-graining and other visible decorations on the components, Breguet has treated the column wheel to a black DLC treatment, the blackened oscillating weight is shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo. Retail price is $18,000/€19,100.
To see both watches in action, follow this link for a short video. To learn more about the new Type XX, follow this link.
We will continue to update this article in the coming hours with hands-on photos, once we get the chance to shoot the watches during the launch event in Paris. Also, stay tuned for WatchTime’s September issue: we are currently working on a deep dive into the Type XX’s past, and an in-depth introduction to the latest two models shown here.
