Maltese Cross of Gold: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding in Rose-Gold and Blue

Back in April, during the virtual Watches & Wonders exhibition, Vacheron Constantin ushered in 2020 with an array of complications, including a version of its Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar in a rose-gold case and a blue lacquered dial. Now the venerable maison applies the same gold-and-blue combo to the collection’s flagship three-hand-date model, the Overseas Self-Winding, which headlines Vacheron’s offerings at this week’s Watches & Wonders in-person sequel in Shanghai.

Following the elegant codes of the Overseas collection, which was substantially revamped in 2016, the new Self-Winding model is recognizable for its hexagonal bezel whose shape evokes that of the Maltese cross that serves as Vacheron Constantin’s historical emblem. The links of its integrated bracelet, in all rose-gold for the first time on this model, also draw their visual inspiration from the Maltese cross. Also in keeping with the modern identity of the Overseas, the bracelet can be easily interchanged with a blue alligator leather or blue textured rubber strap.

The dial’s intense blue colors provide a wealth of visual effects, from the sunburst satin-finished center to the circular satin-finished flange to the velvet-finished minute circle. The hands and hour markers, also in gold, are coated in Super-LumiNova, and the date appears in a window at 3 o’clock. The 41-mm case has a screw-down crown, helping to ensure a water resistance of 150 meters.

Beating behind a sapphire exhibition caseback is the movement, Vacheron’s in-house automatic Caliber 5100, whose visual signature is the 22k gold rotor which is decorated with a nautical instrument called wind rose. Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, the movement’s baseplate is graced with côtes de Genève and holds a power reserve of 60 hours. As with all movements in the Overseas collection, Caliber 5100 is protected from magnetism by a soft iron inner cage.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding in rose gold with blue lacquer dial will retail for $46,200.

Manufacturer:Vacheron Constantin
Reference number:4500V/110R-8705
Functions:Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Movement:Vacheron Constantin Caliber 5100, automatic, 28,800 vph, approx. 60-hour power reserve, 37 jewels, 22k gold rotor with wind rose engraving, Hallmark of Geneva certification
Case:18k 5N rose gold case with sapphire caseback, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water resistant to 150 meters
Bracelet and cla­­sp:18k 5N rose-gold bracelet with rose-gold triple-blade folding clasp; delivered with additional straps in blue alligator leather and blue rubber
Dimensions:Diameter = 41 mm, height = 11 mm
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  1. Dr Jeffrey L. Starr

    Pretty high premium for identical version of steel model, save for gold metal!


    Those attachment points for the two straps, the leather and rubber look like a very weak point!

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