Day two of our year in review, and today we’re looking at some of the most memorable watches to fall under the “haute horlogerie” category from the past three-sixty-five. A loose category primarily composed of the most luxurious, elegant, and / or avant-garde timepieces, 2022 saw an impressive expansion of offerings in the space. In this list we look at 8 specific examples to note. Enjoy!
Omega Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime / Speedmaster Chrono Chime
To kick off today’s recap, we’re starting with a joint release to come from Omega this year: the Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime and the Speedmaster Chrono Chime. Both models are powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 1932, which is the most mechanically advanced movement to come from the brand, made possible by a six-year developmental period in partnership with fellow Swatch Group brand Blancpain.
The Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime has a 45mm footprint and is clad in Omega’s proprietary Sedna Gold. On its exterior of the case are two unique pushers: one at 5 o’clock that sports an embossed musical note and one at 11 o’clock with a red accent that matches the watch’s red split seconds hand. The Speedmaster Chrono Chime has a slightly larger diameter than its counterpart at 45.5mm but sports the same Sedna Gold material for its case. Its silhouette is inspired by the second generation of the legendary Speedmaster, which was the first watch worn in space. Within the rich tone of the case is a blue aventurine grand-Feu enamel dial that creates a night-sky-like shimmer.
Retail price for the Omega Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime is marked at CHF 420,000 (approximately $448,600). The Speedmaster Chrono Chime retails for CHF 450,000 (approximately $480,600).
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO Chronograph
MB&F introduced its first-ever chronograph this year in the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO Chronograph– a mechanical powerhouse equipped with the brand’s 20th manufacture movement. The watch is available in either an “atomic orange” or “coal black” dial plate within a 44mm zirconium case. The dial includes two distinct seconds and minutes chronograph displays on either side of the dial that operate independently of one another and are operable via pushers on each respective side of the case. Adding a new complication to the brand’s catalog, the design of the watch celebrates its mechanics, which itself consists of 585 parts and offers 72 hours of reserved power.
The MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO Chronograph retails for $180,000 via the brand’s website.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum
A. Lange & Söhne debuted its 1815 Rattrapante model back in 2020, and this year the brand reapproached the model with a new platinum iteration. The watch’s platinum case occupies a diameter of 41.2mm and is 12.6mm thick. Its white dial has an unusual layout with sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock rather than the more typical 3 and 9 o’clock. Powering the watch is the caliber L101.2 that debuted with the first iteration of the 1815 Rattrapante. The 365-component mechanism offers a power reserve of 58 hours and is visible through an exhibition caseback.
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante in platinum is limited to 200 pieces and the price is available on request.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5172
Making its debut at the 2022 rendition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva was a new colorway of Patek Philippe’s ref. 5172 chronograph. The new ref. 5172G-001 features an elegant white gold case with a warm salmon-colored dial. The 41-mm case maintains many of its predecessors design trademarks, including syringe-shaped hands and mushroom-style pushers. Inside the watch is the hand-wound manufacture caliber CH 29-535 PS, which includes an instantaneous 30-minute counter and a 65-hour power reserve.
The Patek Philippe ref. 5172G-001 chronograph retails for $80,430.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC
Ferdinand Berthoud introduced the latest addition to its Chronomètre collection this autumn with the Chronomètre FB 3SPC. The design of the watch is a follow up to the original FB1 and FB2 collections, though this newest model debuts a complex movement featuring a cylindrical balance spring, marking the first watch on the market to do so. Its dial champions the mechanical qualities of the watch with a mostly skeletonized layout within its 42.3mm diameter. The three main escapement organs of the watch are visible at 9 o’clock, while the remainder of the movement can be viewed through an exhibition caseback.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC is available in 18-carat white gold (ref. FB 3SPC.1) and 18-carat 5N rose gold (ref. FB 3SPC.2), with production limited to 25 total pieces per year. Pricing for both iterations is $140,000.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Blue Ceramic
The Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet is among the most hype watches on the market, and this year the brand still found a way to breathe new life into the model with an iteration in bright blue. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Blue Ceramic measures an expected 41mm in diameter and sports the trademark octagonal bezel case, all made from ceramic. To reflect the vibrant blue case, the dial includes almost entirely blue details with a “Grande Tapisserie” textured backdrop and four subdials indicating each perpetual calendar function.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Blue Ceramic (ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01) is available via the brand’s certified boutiques with price available upon request.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack
Wrapping up our year in review is a sleek execution from H. Moser & Cie: the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack. Clad in a solid red gold case and matching bracelet, the model is the first in the brand’s Streamliner collection made from precious metal. The watch sports a Vantablack dial, which is the blackest man-made substance on earth, and eschews any unnecessary or obstructive details. The geometric indices and hands are gold-toned and there is an elegant tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position.
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is priced at $119,900.