A metallic bracelet on an Urwerk? What a strange idea, one might think, says Brice Goulard of the watch blog Monochrome. However, if you take a look at the previous models that the brand has created, there was already an Urwerk coming on such a bracelet, the UR-202 White Shark. This timepiece was a stunner. Alongside the ultra-cool and off-the-range UR-110 Eastwood, Urwerk is introducing another watch this year, coming in a full metallic outfit, the Urwerk UR-210S Full Metal Jacket.
The UR-210S is pure Urwerk. It is made with all the DNA of the brand — all its technicality, its unusual display, and its mechanical, cold, technical feeling that creates a stunning result. We already reviewed this watch and explained the way it works when we had the chance to play with the black-coated edition, the UR-210 AlTIN. This watch has two of the specifications that make an Urwerk unique: first the revolving satellite complication with wandering hour and retrograde minute hand, and also the control panel on the caseback.
The way to read the time on the Urwerk UR-210S is both extremely intuitive and, technically, highly complicated. As a wearer, you just have to check the red pointer on the bottom of the dial to check the minutes; inside the minute hand, the hour numeral is revealed on a metallic cube. Easy and practical, isn’t it? Even a child could easily read the time on an Urwerk. However, behind this simplicity, there is a lot of horological sweetness hidden.
As we told you previously when reviewing the AlTIN edition of the Urwerk UR-210, “There is actually only one ‘hand’ to indicate the time and this hand comprises the hour indication and point towards the actual minutes. This is called the satellite complication. In the photo, it points towards 20 minutes and the hour numeral is 3. Thus, the time is exactly 3:20. The hours are printed on a series of ‘cubes’ on three ‘arms.’ Every cube has four sides with a numeral. The three arms with cubes rotate around a central axis. However, the cubes with numerals also rotate around their own axis.” On top of that sits the minute hand, which is actually is a retrograde hand, that runs on a 120° journey. It circles the hour cube once an hour and indicates the time on a 0 to 60 scale located at the bottom of the dial. Once an hour has passed, the retrograde hour goes back to its original position. A sharp, distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 second, the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite.
The other specificity of the Urwerk UR-210S (like every other edition of the UR-210) is the control panel on the caseback: a winding selector allows you to slow or stop the automatic winding rotor. Depending on your activity, you can select the winding strength of the rotor in one of three positions – full, reduced, and stop. This function is complemented by two indications on the dial side: a power-reserve indicator at 2 o’clock and a winding efficiency indicator at 10. The latter calculates the difference between the consumed and generated energy of the mainspring. When you are not active enough, the indicator will move toward the red zone, meaning that your watch consumes more energy than the rotor provides to the main spring. On the other hand, if you are moving energetically, the indicator goes into the green zone, showing that the rotor is providing more power than the watch consumes. These two indications will help you to select the right position of the winding selector.
For 2015, Urwerk chose to re-issue the concept of a fully metallic watch, as it did with the UR-202 White Shark. The Urwerk UR-210S Full Metal Jacket comes in a very monochromatic look, with a full silver-brushed tone. While the other Urwerk looks futuristic and dark, this metallic bracelet combined with a brighter dial brings a very luminous and technical look. The bracelet perfectly fits the shape of the UR-210 and it even complements it. It seems that this bracelet was conceived at the same time as the case of the UR-210. It really finishes the design. Both sportier and at the same time more discreet, it is a quite a surprise.
Of course, don’t expect the Urwerk UR-210S to play in the lightweight category. The stainless steel bracelet is massive and heavy, as is the titanium and stainless steel case. However, the watch is balanced and feels extremely comfortable while strapped. The legibility is superb due to the brighter color scheme and the high contrast between the minute hand, the satellites and the dial.
The URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket is a limited edition of 35 pieces and it is priced at 145.000 Swiss Francs.