Fresh from a collaboration with Armin Strom on the Mirrored Force Resonance, Kari Voutilainen debuted a new watch at SIHH 2018 in Geneva last week. Inspired by the Finnish watchmaker’s Vingt-8 movement, the in-house caliber at the heart of the 217QRS represents Voutilainen at his absolute best.
One of the major highlights here is the retrograde date that is integrated directly into the main plate. To set the date, all you have to do is press the crown down, moving the date hand a day. On the final day of the month, the date hand uses a special mechanism designed by Voutilainen to move the date hand back to day one without bouncing out of sync on arrival.
Attached to the extra-large balance wheel is a balance spring that uses a Phillips overcoil on its exterior and a Grossmann curve on its interior. The escapement also boasts a world first by using two escapement wheels in this configuration. By using two wheels rather than one, it provides a direct impulse to the balance through the jewels. This utilizes much less energy than traditional lever escapements, which should allow for greater longevity between service intervals.
As with any Voutilainen timepiece, all the finishing here is done by hand and is unmatched in its quality.
The 39-mm wristwatch comes in a total series of 30 watches: 10 in platinum, 10 in white gold, and 10 in rose gold.
You can read our profile on Kari Voutilainen here.