Angus Davies reviews the Perrelet Black & Gold Tourbillon. Limited to only 20 pieces, this timepiece occupies the upper echelons of the Perrelet range. Read more from Angus on his online watch magazine, Escapement.
Swiss brand Perrelet revealed its Turbine model, which featured an unusual double rotor, a few years ago. The model has proved to be a commercial success and is now a valued member of Perrelet’s current product range.
One rotor provides the convenience of self-winding the mainspring, typical of automatic timepieces, while a second rotor, positioned above the dial, delivers an innovative design feature common to all Turbine models.
The Perrelet Turbine watches incorporate blades that revolve at various speeds, depending on the inertia of the wearer’s wrist at that particular snapshot in time. The result is a game of horological peekaboo, where the gap between the blades allows the lower dial to be momentarily seen.
In recent years, we have seen Perrelet employ different colors and, in some instances, bright patterns, providing a unique spectacle for the delectation of the wearer.
The rotor to the front of the watch is not functional, in the sense that it does not deliver any power to the spring barrel. However, it adds value by creating an innovative and alluring aesthetic appearance. On our watch blog Escapement, we have reviewed both the Perrelet Turbine 1047/2 and the Perrelet Turbine Diver.
Now Perrelet has eschewed the turbine in favor of a tourbillon (or “whirlwind”) on this latest limited-edition model, the Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon.
The substantial case diameter of 50 mm results in a large dial canvas on which to display the functions presented.
Black and gold are sympathetically blended on the dial, creating a pleasing contrast. This successful color scheme is repeated on the case and strap ensemble.
The hours and minutes are located on a subdial, off-center, adjacent to 6 o’clock. Gold dauphine shaped hands convey hours and minutes with a traditional air. A minute rail frames the perfectly circular subdial. The hour batons eccentrically frame the subdial, with those hour batons between 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock being larger than those occupying the southern aspect of the dial.
In the upper area of the dial, the tourbillon cage sits resplendently. Framing the tourbillon is an exquisite lattice work detail to the cage, which is further repeated on the neighboring escape wheel. A short, arrow-tipped hand attached to the perimeter of the cage interfaces with a chapter ring to impart seconds. Visible demarcation is provided by a rose gold circlet surrounding the tourbillon.