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Reading time 6 min.

No interest in waiting lines: Fascinating alternatives to the Royal Pop

From pocket watches to pendants and necklaces - the unusual watch formats making a comeback
Volan Watches – Type One, automatic watch for the keychain
© Volan Watches

For decades, there was little question about how a watch should be worn: on the wrist. Today, that assumption is beginning to shift. The growing interest in reimagined pocket watches, jewelry watches, and wearable accessories suggests that the relationship between timekeeping, fashion, and personal identity is evolving. While high-profile collaborations such as the one between Swatch and Audemars Piguet have brought the concept back into the spotlight, both historical and contemporary creations demonstrate that watches have long been capable of far more than serving as conventional wristwatches. Some disappear into pockets, others hang from the neck, and some even find a place as earrings.

Volan Watches – Type One, automatic watch for the keychain

Volan Watches – Type One

© Volan Watches 

#Volan Watches – Type One

The young Rotterdam-based Dutch brand Volan Watches defines its watches less through traditional watchmaking heritage than through emotion, design, and a particular way of life. Nostalgic wooden boats, winding coastal roads, and mechanical engineering provide the inspiration for creations that sit somewhere between vintage lifestyle and modern microbrand culture. The Type One illustrates this philosophy especially well. Conceived as a tribute to classic wooden boatbuilding, the watch’s most distinctive feature is the integration of genuine teak wood into its construction. Technically, Volan relies on proven components. At its heart beats the Sellita SW200, one of the most widely used Swiss automatic calibers. The movement features 26 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and delivers approximately 38 to 40 hours of power reserve. It can be admired through a sapphire crystal caseback fitted with a custom-designed rotor. Polished stainless steel, a domed sapphire crystal, and a high-gloss dial enhanced with Super-LumiNova reinforce the watch’s premium character. Priced at around 1000 US Dollars, the Type One is a highly unusual yet fully functional keychain timepiece— one that blurs the line between accessory, design object, and mechanical watch.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Reverso Secret Necklace, luxury watch on a jewelry chain
Jaeger-LeCoultre – Reverso Secret Necklace © Jaeger-LeCoultre 

#Jaeger-LeCoultre – Reverso Secret Necklace

With the Reverso Secret Necklace, Jaeger-LeCoultre reinterprets one of its most celebrated icons in an unexpected way. Originally introduced in 1931 and famed for its reversible case, the Reverso is no longer worn on the wrist but transformed into an exquisitely crafted sautoir necklace. Combining high watchmaking, jewelry craftsmanship, and rare artisanal skills, the long necklace remains faithful to the collection’s historic design codes while reinterpreting them as a distinctly feminine piece of jewelry. The black textile strap of early Reverso models has evolved into a supple chain composed of polished onyx beads and diamond-set links. Two additional onyx pendants further reinforce the Art Deco character that has always been central to the Reverso’s identity. The watch’s most intriguing feature remains its concealed display: only by rotating the case does the dial reveal itself. The level of craftsmanship involved is extraordinary. Setting the numerous diamonds alone requires more than 300 hours of handwork in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares atelier. The delicate chain links represent one of the most demanding disciplines in gem-setting, as each individual element must be finished with absolute precision. Inside beats the hand-wound Caliber 846, comprising 93 components and developed specifically for the Reverso’s rectangular architecture. As a result, despite its jewel-like appearance, the Reverso Secret Necklace remains a true mechanical watch, underscoring the Maison’s conviction that aesthetic refinement should never come at the expense of horological substance. 

Chanel – Première Iconic Chain Necklace, luxurious necklace with watch
Chanel – Première Iconic Chain Necklace © Chanel 

#Chanel – Première Collier Chaîne Iconique

Also designed to be worn around the neck is Chanel's Première Collier Chaîne Iconique, which translates one of the house’s most recognizable design signatures directly into watchmaking. The long chain, crafted from yellow gold-plated stainless steel interwoven with black leather, deliberately references the iconic shoulder chains of Chanel’s celebrated handbags, transforming the watch into a jewel that extends far beyond the traditional role of a timekeeper. The design remains closely connected to the history of the Première. As Chanel’s first watch, the original Première drew inspiration from the architectural lines of Paris’s Place Vendôme and the visual codes of the house itself. The Collier Chaîne Iconique reinterprets that concept for today. Its compact case measures just 26.1 by 20 millimeters, while the black lacquered dial dispenses entirely with numerals and indexes in favor of a minimalist aesthetic. Power comes from a high-precision quartz movement displaying hours and minutes. The piece perfectly illustrates Chanel’s approach to watchmaking: not as a showcase for technical one-upmanship, but as an extension of its own design universe. At around 12,700 US Dollars, it is a statement piece designed to grace the wearer’s neck as much as tell the time.

Cartier – Purse Watch, golden vintage pocket watch

Cartier – Purse Watch

© Sotheby`s

#Cartier – Purse Watch

Objects such as the extraordinary Cartier purse watch from the 1950s reveal a facet of watchmaking that has all but disappeard today. Timepieces that are simultaneously functional objects, pieces of jewelry, and mechanical curiosities have become exceedingly rare. Crafted in 18-carat yellow gold, the rectangular watch features a finely engraved basket weave motif and initially conceals its dial behind a sliding cover. Once opened, the inner case springs into an angled position, transforming itself into a miniature table clock, that can be conveniently read on a desk or bedside table. The design draws on a concept that became particularly popular during the late 1920s and 1930s. As wristwatches grew increasingly dominant, purse watches emerged as an elegant alternative, often incorporating surprising mechanisms, sliding covers, folding systems, or rotating protective grilles. Such creations were never merely about telling the time; they served as expressions of individuality, technical ingenuity, and a luxurious lifestyle. The silver-toned dial, with its black radial Roman numerals, railway minute track, and blued hands, displays classic Cartier design cues. Power is provided by a movement from Jaeger-LeCoultre, finished with Geneva stripes, a lever escapement, and finely decorated components. Fascinating examples like this continue to appear at auction on a regular basis and are well worth seeking out.

Shinola – Elijah McCoy Mechanic Pocket Watch, black pocket watch

Shinola – Elijah McCoy Mechanic Pocket Watch

© Shinola 

#Shinola – Elijah McCoy Mechanic Pocket Watch

With the Elijah McCoy Mechanic Pocket Watch, Shinola honors one of the most influential African American inventors of the 19th century. Elijah McCoy became renowned for his innovations in the railroad industry, particularly an automatic lubrication system for locomotives, whose quality was so appreciated that it inspired the expression “The Real McCoy.” As part of its Great Americans Series, Shinola translates that legacy into a contemporary pocket watch. Stylistically, the watch takes its cues from classic steam locomotives. A matte black case is paired with gold-tone accents and red details, deliberately blending industrial aesthetics with nostalgic influences. The generous 45 mm diameter gives the pocket watch a commanding presence, while a display back reveals the mechanics of the hand-wound SW210-1 caliber, further emphasizing its technical character. The watch is accompanied by a black stainless-steel chain and a custom-made wooden stand, allowing it to serve not only as a wearable timepiece but also as a decorative object. The Elijah McCoy Mechanic Pocket Watch is therefore less a straightforward reinterpretation of a historical pocket watch than a tribute to engineering achievement and cultural heritage. 

Sage & Saber – Gold Watch Drop Earrings, golden watch earrings

Sage & Saber – Gold Watch Drop Earrings

© Sage & Saber 

#Sage & Saber – Gold Watch Drop Earrings

For those who find both the wrist and the pocket rather uninspiring places to wear a watch, a trip to the piercing studio and the Gold Watch Drop Earrings from Sage & Saber demonstrate just how far the traditional concept of a watch has drifted from its original purpose. The earrings combine miniature gold-toned watch cases with dangling heart-shaped charms. Crafted from a mixed-metal alloy, complemented by hypoallergenic, lead- and nickel-free earring hooks, they offer a playful take on wearable timekeeping. At around 80 US Dollars, they may not revolutionize horology—but they do ensure that at least the person you're talking to always knows what time it is.

 

You might also be interested in: Bye Bye Labubu and Hermès Charms: The Royal Pop Is the New It-Object for Your Bag.

 

 

Swatch Group Swatch Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chanel Cartier

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