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Reading time 8 min.

Watches and Wonders 2025: Editors' Picks

Best_of_Watches_and_Wonders_2025_WatchTime_Editors_Picks_Featured_Flag_2
© rruegger

Among the "over 1,600 journalists (+7%)" at Watches and Wonders was also the majority of WatchTime's editorial team. Here's their personal view of "an event that has become a 'must-attend'."

Best_of_Watches_and_Wonders_2025_WatchTime_Editors_Picks
Four new watches that were mentioned more than once by WatchTime's editorial team (from left to right): the new Cartier Tank à Guichets in platinum (Ref. WGTA0236), Grand Seiko Tentagraph "Tokyo Lion" SLGC009, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds (Ref. Q713216J), and the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik (Ref. 791) © PR

What was was your favorite release?

ca: I love watches that are out of the ordinary while still recalling something bigger than themselves. Whether that be just regular brand DNA, vintage influences, or even eras of design more generally— if a watch is a bit weird but still "canon," I'm in. Each of the watches I chose have some element of this, but the Cartier Tank à Guichets in platinum stands out the most.

mg: That superb constant force tourbillon that Arnold & Son released and which was inspired by the pocket watch that represented the friendship between John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet. The watch beautifully resembles the historic pocket watch that Arnold and Breguet gifted each other back and forth, but without it getting too retro. Both the execution of the watch itself as well as the finishing it just so well done.

zl: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. Among so many cool and interesting releases, why is this relatively simple yet completely unaffordable (for me) update to an existing model my favorite? Because it’s actually impossible to choose a single favorite. But after trying it on, this watch stuck in my mind like no other for its warm, monochromatic, minimalist combination of gold mesh bracelet and grained dial. That, and its size and simplicity are just perfect for my wrist and tastes.

rr: Given its significance, it would have to be the Land-Dweller from Rolex.

sz: I love hand-wound dress watches that celebrate minimalism at its finest and yet manage to exude an unmistakable style. Vacheron Constantin's Traditionelle Manual-Winding is one of the most striking examples. The latest version, presented at Watches and Wonders, not only ticks all the boxes for the art of understated timekeeping, but also takes elegance to the next level with its beautiful guilloché dial, a nod to the Manufacture's 270th anniversary.

Dress WatchSports WatchComplicated WatchChronographRe-Edition
Caleb Anderson (ca)Piaget Sixtie in rose goldIWC Ingenieur 35mm in red gold Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik WorldtimerRolex Daytona with turquoise lacquer dialCartier Tank à Guichets in platinum
Martin Green (mg)Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air]Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux AutomateAngelus Chronographe TelemetreRoger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Zen Love (zl)Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Manual-Winding (38mm)Patek Philippe Cubitus (40mm)Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT PlatinumtechGrand Seiko Tentagraph "Tokyo Lion" SLGC009 Louis Moinet 1816
Roger Ruegger (rr)Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196PTudor Pelagos UltraParmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième PerpétuelGrand Seiko Tentagraph "Tokyo Lion" SLGC009Cartier Tank à Guichets
Sabine Zwettler (sz)A. Lange & Söhne 1815Panerai Luminor Marina PAM03323Hermès Cut, Le Temps SuspenduParmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph CermetPatek Philippe Annual Calendar 4946R

What impressed you most in Geneva this year?

ca: Sadly, I was not in Geneva this year, but certainly what I found most impressive all the way back in New York was easily the Rolex Land-Dweller. Is it my favorite watch from the show? No. But it's certainly very significant that the brand more-or-less revived the Oysterquartz design within its first brand new collection in quite some time. This is even more so in the context of almost all brands of note having already released some form of an integrated sports watch design, which the Land-Dweller seems rather late to the party on. Nevertheless, it's a memorable release, and surely something the brand will continue to expand as the years continue.

mg: Watches and Wonders was this year bigger than ever but also smoother as the organization fine tuned various aspects. What also became clear is why we still have such shows; meeting people and experience the watches on the wrist, because both are vital in writing articles for you.

zl: It’s obviously awesome seeing all the most exciting new watches in person at their moment of peak freshness. But, for me, this year was special as my first Watches and Wonders with the incredible WatchTime team. I got to meet some of my colleagues for the first time and experience the show in a new way.

rr: Chopard has had some incredible releases this year, like the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF and the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV. I am almost happy that I didn't get to see the new Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold from Parmigiani Fleurier (saw the platinum version instead), this watch comes very, very close to my definition of perfection. And Patek Philippe's new Calatrava (Ref. 6196P) was a nice reminder of why the brand is so respected. But overall, it was the level of creativity on display. The watch industry usually tends to become more conservative when times get tough. This year, however, we've seen a surprisingly large number of incredibly creative and significant releases. Just look at the Endeavour Pop collection from H. Moser & Cie.!

sz: As the industry's number one event, Watches and Wonders brings together the global community to celebrate both innovation and tradition in horology at the highest level. While the spotlight is on the latest timepieces, the magic also lies in the connections made between the brands, collectors, enthusiasts, and journalists from every corner of the world. The shared passion for horology and craftsmanship is palpable and something very special every visitor takes home with them.

Which watch is most likely to end up on your wrist, and why?

ca: Being realistic on cost, the Nomos Campus Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, which at $4,720 is a solidly priced timepiece that I'd be sure to enjoy wearing, traveling or otherwise. Being realistic on enjoyment— sans the $37,500 price tag— the IWC Ingenieur 35mm in red gold, which is just funny enough to stand out, while small and form fitting enough to actually be wearable in the day-to-day.

mg: Realistically, the new Campus Sport Neomatik Worldtimer by Nomos. A sublime watch that looks amazing on the wrist, is beautifully made, features a useful complication, a practical yet fun design and even has a manufacture movement. More a choice for the long term is the new IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar. While I am a big fan of IWC, the Ingenieur wouldn’t be my first choice but with this one it all connected when I put it on the wrist. Well proportioned, nice heft without being too heavy, and of course my favorite complication.

zl: Tudor Black Bay 58 METAS. Everyone knows just how good the BB58 is, but a METAS certification takes it to another level. And yet, it hasn’t taken it to a significantly higher price tier. It was an amazing value proposition before, but now it’s just off the charts. I’m not sure I’ll actually get this version, though I very much like it in burgundy, but a METAS BB58 or Pelagos 39 is most certainly in my future.

rr: If I didn't already have a Pelagos (1st gen) in my collection, it would probably be the new Pelagos Ultra from Tudor. But since I've already bought a (vintage) watch that I couldn't let pass, I am going to have to hold back a little bit.

sz: The new Campus Sport Neomatik Worldtimer from Nomos Glashütte once again showcases the independent brand's expertise in both mechanics and design. A winning combination of functionality, sportiness and versatility, it offers a world-time complication in a sleek, easy-to-wear style that effortlessly suits any occasion. Competitively priced, it offers exceptional value with a genuine movement and meticulous craftsmanship.

What didn't get the attention it deserved in your opinion?

ca: Piaget has been doing some excellent work in reviving so-called "geezer" watches in recent years. With a massive historical catalogue and the modern will to explore it, this labor has resulted in the highly-praised Polo 79 in both white and yellow gold alongside multiple iterations of the Andy Warhol watch. The Piaget Sixtie continues this work, though now focused on the "grandma" front. The new design expands upon other novel looks seen in the brand's Limelight Gala and Possession lines, offering on the women's focused side of their catalogue the most vintage-looking timepiece yet. The watch, thus far, seems to have received passive praise, though I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up as a sleeper hit down the line.

mg: For that we need to go to Raymond Weil. It is actually not the watch alone but the flush integrated corrector pushers to correct the new Freelancer Complete Calendar. Such a clean and clever solution of which other brands want to take note. This is so much nicer and easier to use than the correctors other brands use, most even on their high end models with perpetual calendars.

zl: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Blue Ceramic. The spotlight for Chanel was on its J12 Blue — sorry, Bleu — in deep, dark blue ceramic. And while I do love certain versions of the J12, I’ve also long been a fan of the Monsieur. In its sportier Superleggera version, it’s incredibly cool in the same ceramic color and, in my opinion, outshines the new J12 models.

rr: The Nomos Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer, Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture ($9,995!) and the new Big Crown Pointer Date from Oris.

sz: It seemed to me that few people took the time to look at the Longitude 0° exhibition, which invited visitors on a journey along the Greenwich meridian. Photographer Fred Merz's remarkable adventure, captured in fifteen photographic diptychs, offered an up-close look at the markers and people along this invisible line that defines time zones and hemispheres.

Follow this link for WatchTime's entire show coverage.

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