Watches and Wonders 2025: A First Summary

With "more brands, more novelties," and also "more activities!" taking place in Geneva last week, covering this year's Watches and Wonders (April 1 to 7) live from the show floor quickly confirmed that both the organizers as well as the majority of the participating brands had decided to counter the "marked slowdown in an uncertain climate" the Federation of the Swiss watch industry FH has been observing for a while now with the release of an impressive number of stunning watches - some of them with the potential to shape the entire industry.

Speaking of which: this year's Watches and Wonders did bring more than 50 watchmakers to Geneva, including leading brands from LVMH (Bulgari, for the first time, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith) and Richemont (A. Lange & Söhne, Baume et Mercier, Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels), but none of Swatch Group's premium brands (like Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original or Omega) had decided to attend. In other words: Watches and Wonders did certainly bring together some of "the industry's key players," but definitely not all of them (here's the full list of brands).

Watchmaking Trends

Looking at hundreds of exciting new watches launched at this year's Watches and Wonders, it's quite obvious that the importance of new materials (especially ceramic), "métiers d'art" (mostly dials) and technical innovation, jewelry watches and precious metals has further increased. And, yes, brands went literally full speed ahead with Formula 1 this year (more about this in a minute).

Best in Show

The biggest news in Geneva was without doubt the introduction of the new Land-Dweller collection from Rolex. More than 7 years research and development, 32 patent applications, 18 of which are exclusive to the model, a new movement with a high frequency of 5 hertz and a new escapement. With its integrated bracelet and honeycomb dial pattern, Rolex not only "begins the next chapter in its history," Switzerland's leading watchmaker also sent a very clear message to fans of watches like the Royal Oak.

Shortly after the press embargo had lifted, President Donald Trump's announcement of new tariffs (including goods from Switzerland) not only sent shockwaves through global markets, but obviously also dominated the discussions in Geneva, slightly overshadowing some of the new world records and firsts that were also unveiled at the show:

Watchmaking Excellence

Featuring 41 complications, 5 rare astronomical functions and an innovative Westminster minute-repeater, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première (Ref. 9600C/000G-231C) with 1,521 components crowns eight years of research and development, including 13 patent applications filed. Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon (Ref. 104313), on the other hand, achieved the 10th world record for the brand, redefining ultra-thin watchmaking at Watches and Wonders 2025 with the world's thinnest tourbillon watch (€750,000). Ulysse Nardin, too, looked at possibilities to remove as much as possible and presented a new, innovative, high-tech movement, the UN-374, together with its new Diver [AIR]. Weighing just 52g, is the lightest mechanical dive watch on the market (the movement alone is under 10g).

German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne launched once again a watch with a minute repeater (shown here on the right), this time pairing it with a perpetual calendar and 40.5-mm platinum case. Meet the Minute Repeater Perpetual (Ref. 607.091FE).

Make It Pop

While the 80s in general continue to have a strong influence on watch design in general, even traditional watchmakers have been exploring surprising color combinations this year. Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie., for example, launched the stunning Endeavour Pop collection - "an explosion of colors and gemstones, breathing new energy into precious materials." Each dial combines carefully selected gemstones - Burmese jade, turquoise, coral, pink opal, lapis lazuli, and lemon chrysoprase - sourced from renowned locations.

One of Oris' most well-known and longest-produced models, the Big Crown Pointer Date (shown here with terracotta dial), has been revamped for Watches and Wonders. It is available both with the brand's own movement (403) or the Sellita-based Oris 754 (with prices starting at 2,300). And dial colors like "sunshine yellow" or turqoise.

As the sport's Official Timekeeper in 2025, TAG Heuer finally brought back the long-awaited Formula 1 (there were almost 10 Formula 1 race cars on display, with IWC, Tudor and TAG Heuer also heavily involved). Three versions form the core collection, available in classic black and white dial, deep blue, both with a steel bracelet and a bold red. The remaining six models are limited editions, featuring striking color combinations: black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and a green and red edition. While each watch unmistakably pays homage to the original 1986 collection, the larger 38-mm version of today come with Super-Luminova treated indexes in an applied format. At the heart of the sandblasted steel cases (with or without a DLC treatment) or the new TH-Polylight material used for this release is the brand’s Solargraph movement, a first for the TAG Heuer Formula 1 lineup.

Perfectly Dressed

Zenith, celebrating its 160th anniversary in 2025, delivered almost a best of some of the current must haves in the watch industry with one single watch: a blue guilloché dial with stone insert, a COSC-certified historic movement in a platinum case, and a relatively small number of watches produced (yes, you guessed it right, 160 pieces):

Watchmaking 2025: Higher, Further, Faster

Weighing just 48 grams (without strap), the new Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF (Ref. 298600-3028 ) is the lightest watch ever to join Chopard’s Alpine Eagle collection ("SL" stands for Super Light), and only the third Alpine Eagle watch ever to be powered by the watchmaker's high-frequency movement. The 41 mm, 9.75 mm-thick case has been made from ceramicized titanium (grade 5), as have the bezel and its eight indexed screws. But there is more: this time, even the mainplate and bridges of Chopard's 01.14-C automatic in-house movement have been made from ceramicized titanium, thus featuring the same matte finish. The movement is chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Despite its high frequency, Chopard's Calibre 01.14-C has an impressive 60-hour power reserve.

This limited edition watch, together with the Formula 1 from TAG Heuer as well as the Pointer Date from Oris, are already going to be featured in WatchTime's upcoming May-June issue. In the meantime: Follow this link for WatchTime's extensive (and ongoing) coverage of Watches and Wonders 2025, and stay tuned for a selection of some of our editorial team's favorite watches from this year's show.