Celebrating Aviation History: Breguet Launches Type XX Chronographe 2075

Breguet— one of the most revered names in watchmaking— is celebrating a monumental milestone this year: its 250th anniversary. Founded in 1775 by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand continues to honor its rich heritage with a series of special edition timepieces. To mark this occasion, Breguet has already unveiled two refined commemorative watches, each crafted in its new exclusive 18k Breguet gold alloy, a combination of gold enriched with silver, copper and palladium. The festivities began with the Classique Souscription 2025, a modern homage to the iconic Souscription pocket watches, a clever marketing concept the master watchmaker initiated during his time in Paris. This was followed by the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, dedicated to traditional craftsmanship and the intricate details of his work that are still used today.

The brand now turns to its legacy in aviation with the release of the Type XX Chronographe 2075, offered in two intriguing iterations, of which one is limited. These two new hand-wound chronographs, each presented in the new Breguet gold, revisit a landmark moment in the brand’s mid-20th-century development. They draw direct inspiration from a civilian Type XX model first unveiled in 1955.

That pivotal era began when the French Air Force issued a tender for a pilot’s chronograph wristwatch, codenamed Type 20. Breguet was among the manufacturers selected to fulfill this specification. The result was the 1952 debut of the Breguet pilots watch, with two primary military configurations: the Type 20 for the Air Force and the Type XX for Naval Aviation. Civilian iterations soon followed, with numerous variations entering the broader market that are highly sought after by collectors today. This lineage was formally revived within Breguet’s current collections, culminating in the fourth generation of the Type XX, launched in 2023.

Now, the 2025 edition returns to the roots of that civilian model from 1955. According to archival records, the original watch featured a satin-finished silver dial, later replaced by a black dial variant. Breguet pays tribute to both configurations through the two new references—each with its own historical resonance and contemporary technical sophistication.

The first, ref. 2075BH/99/398, features a dial crafted from anodized aluminum, marking a first for Breguet. This choice pays homage to Louis Breguet, aviation pioneer and great-great-grandson of the founder, who famously used Duralumin—an aluminum-based alloy—for aircraft construction. In a subtle yet meaningful nod, a discreet "Al" marking is placed between 7 and 8 o’clock on the dial, denoting the material’s presence. The dial’s black hue is achieved through advanced anodization, a method that forms a protective oxide layer, enhancing both corrosion resistance and color depth. Breguet applies state-of-the-art aerospace anodizing techniques to ensure mechanical durability and visual clarity, enhancing the legibility of this historically inspired instrument.

The second version, ref. 2075BH/99/398, returns to the aesthetic of the original 1955 model in its earliest form, with a solid silver dial presented in a vertically brushed finish. This treatment imparts a subdued luster that complements the overall technical sophistication of this chronograph featuring a tachymeter scale for measuring speed. A discreet "Ag925" hallmark, also placed between 7 and 8 o’clock, acknowledges the use of sterling-grade silver.

With a diameter of 38.3mm, identical to the historic 1955 timepiece, and a thickness of 13.2mm, the case is crafted entirely in Breguet gold. Framing the dial is a slim, bi-directional rotating bezel, its numerals elegantly rendered in black on the black model and in blue on the silver version, offering a harmonious contrast that enhances legibility and style.

The calibers powering these two timepieces are refined iterations of the high-performance caliber 728 with an impressive power reserve of 60 hours, first introduced in the fourth generation in 2023, however here in a manually-wound execution. This movement incorporates all the elements of a modern chronograph such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency as well as an innovative zero-resetting activation system. The balance-spring, the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. Both movements incorporate a flyback chronograph function, enabling the wearer to reset and restart the timing sequence instantly with a single press of the pusher at 4 o’clock. The black-dialled model houses the caliber 7279, featuring a 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock, while the silver-dialled version is equipped with the caliber 7278, offering a 30-minute counter in the same position.

Both movements are beautifully gilded in Breguet gold, showcasing the brand’s signature craftsmanship. Through the transparent case back, an exquisite hand-crafted engraving executed in Breguet’s own workshopscomes into view. It depicts the historic Breguet 19 aircraft, designed by Louis Breguet, soaring gracefully in full flight. The scene is accompanied by the precise route taken during its historic 1930 transatlantic journey. A striking contrast is created by the frosted finish of the European and North American landmasses, set against the smooth, polished surface of the Atlantic Ocean.

Both new models feature an interchangeable leather strap, gradient black for the black dial version and gradient blue for the silver dial version.

Limited to 250 pieces, ref. 2075BH/G9/398 retails for $45,200. The unlimited ref. 2075BH/99/398 is priced at $43,500.

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