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Reading time 4 min.

Revisiting the Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar

A look back at the Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar, a standout of the 1990s. With a perpetual calendar, distinctive integrated design, and a blend of steel and gold, it remains a stylish and functional timepiece even decades later.
© Martin Green
Omega has always had its finger on the pulse of fashion with its Constellation collection. The design of these watches evolved over the decades, representing the more elegant side of the brand. The version that reigned during most of the 1990s and early 2000s was a sophisticated blend of style elements from previous generations yet now presented in a more casual chic way and was really in tune with the style and taste of that era.
© Martin Green
An interesting model during those days was the Constellation Perpetual Calendar. These watches were powered by quartz Caliber 1680, which was Omega’s designation for ETA Caliber 252.511. This was a high-quality, high-precision quartz movement with 11 jewels and thermocompensation that came with a few handy additional functions. The first is the perpetual calendar, meaning that the date will automatically adapt for leap years and any months with less than 31 days. It is programmed up till 2099, and although it doesn’t have a window for the month or the year, it can show it. To do so, simply press the crown for about 3 seconds. The number in the date window will now move to show the month, and after a few seconds, it will move again to show the year in Roman numerals, with IV indicating that it’s a leap year.
© Martin Green
This is not the only clever function of the Constellation Perpetual Calendar. With travelers in mind, if you pull out the crown to the first position, you can set the hour hand independently of the timekeeping. This allows you to set it to a different time zone without compromising the precision. If you pull it to the second position, the second hand stops, and you can set the watch regularly.
© Martin Green
The Constellation Perpetual Calendar was the largest Constellation in the collection, except for the chronograph. While a diameter of 35.5 mm sounds a bit dainty today, it is different on the wrist. Because it has an integrated bracelet, the perception of this watch goes beyond the mere fact of its dimensions. An eye-catching feature is the bezel with Roman numerals filled in with black lacquer and the four claws that seem to hold it, a signature feature for the Constellation. Omega offered the Constellation Perpetual Calendar in either stainless steel or stainless steel with yellow-gold bezel, crown, and bracelet segments. Especially the style of this last version is very typical for the 1990s. It adds a bit more contrast to the design of the Constellation, in particular because the bezel is brushed.
© Martin Green
Of all the watches that were then available in the Constellation collection, the perpetual calendar had the most elaborate dial. It features alternating textures that are subtle yet distinct. They also have a nice play of light, further enhancing the pleasure of wearing one of these Omegas. The bracelet is also a joy, not only because its integrated design suits the watch so well but also because it follows the wrist closely. While it lacks the ability for micro-adjustment, Omega did have smaller links allowing owners to get the size just right. The link where it opens not only has a pusher next to it, but is also marked with a gold insert with the Omega logo on it. This is always in 18-karat yellow gold, even on the full stainless-steel model.
Although also sold beyond that decade, there is hardly a watch that better captures the spirit of the 1990s than the Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar, particularly the one combining stainless steel with yellow gold. Even today, it is a watch that still has a lot to offer, not only in functionalities but also in style. These watches have aged very nicely, and while they may not be as ‘en vogue’ anymore as they were back then, they still make quite a statement.
This article was originally published in the January / February 2024 print issue. To subscribe to WatchTime Magazine, click here.
Omega Constellation Quartz Watches Vintage Watches

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