Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti: Horological Machine Meets Serpentine Sophistication

Bulgari and MB&F, two titans of the luxury watchmaking world, are again joining forces in an unexpected collaboration. The new launch works to push the boundaries of craftsmanship and both case and movement design by bringing the Serpenti into the mechanical universe of MB&F. The result is a unique horological machine that combines the visions of both brands in a stunning statement piece.

Three models of the Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti are being launched, each limited to only 33 pieces. The first version features a titanium case with blue hour and minute domes. The second is set in an 18K rose gold case, highlighted by green hour and minute domes. The third version is crafted from black PVD-coated stainless steel, with striking red hour and minute domes. All three models are paired with matching hand-stitched rubber straps with a Velcro system and an ardillon buckle made of the same material as the case.

The Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti is already the second timepiece for which the two manufactures joined forces. In 2021, they unveiled the MB&F X Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra, a high-jewelry version of the ladies' targeted Legacy Machine FlyingT with the eponymous flying tourbillon taking center stage developed by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bulgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F.

For their second collaboration, the two masterminds chose to reinterpret one of Bvlgari’s most famous timepieces, the Serpenti, born in 1948, in MB&F's cutting-edge approach to high horology. This bold endeavor required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception, but also in regards to case design and manufacturing.

Contrary to a classic round case, which offers only a few dimensions to experiment with, the case of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is highly complex, with different shapes and materials from all sides and angles. Naturally, the snake's features also needed to be taken into account. The time-consuming design process was in fact similar to that of a car.

Once perfected aesthetically, the curved design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this generated a number of further challenges. The complex curves extend beyond the metal of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-facetted rear section, treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the movement.

This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish, but also highly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 meters.

Inside the complex case ticks an equally complicated bespoke movement, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F, that breaks with traditional conventions. From the beginning, one of Fabrizio’s central ideas was to breathe life into the "Serpenti" by animating its eyes aka the revolving hour and minute domes. The left one makes a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. The paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminium to make them as light as possible, requiring innovative milling processes. Both are adorned with Superluimova for nighttime readability.

The mechanical reptile’s "brain" is symbolized by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz. It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.

Flipping the "machine" over reveals the power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the hand-wound and meticulously finished movement. MB&F takes pride in upholding an artisanal manufacturing processes, with finishing the components by hand; an approach only possible when crafting a very limited number of watches per year (just under 400 in 2024). The watchmakers at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month; the 99 pieces will require over a year to deliver.

Pricing is marked at $170,334 for the red gold version. The steel and titanium executions retail for $147,921 each. All prices are without taxes.

To learn more, visit Bulgari, here, and MB&F, here.