A Spotlight on the Leica ZM 11
Light, shadow, and precision in a distinct collection
Leica’s new ZM 11 offers many stylistic highlights, but the most important element in the design is the dial. The two-layer arrangement of 0.4-mm-thin layers creates an interesting depth and gives the impression of a color gradient, although the surface’s color doesn’t actually vary from light to dark. The indexes and hands also feature complex design: The brushed, applied hour markers have polished edges and are filled with luminous material to ensure good legibility in all lighting conditions, while the faceted, diamond-cut hands combine brushed and sandblasted surfaces for exciting reflections of incident light.
Exclusive Automatic Caliber
The Swiss micromechanical specialist Chronode supplies the movement, automatic Caliber LA-3001, which is finely adjusted to assure chronometer-worthy precision. The maximum deviation ranges between –4 and +6 seconds per day and the power reserve has an above-average duration of 60 hours. Attention to detail is equally evident in the sandblasting, brushing, and polishing techniques, which call to mind the finishing lavished on the surfaces of Leica’s well-known ZM 1 and ZM 2 calibers.
The shape and finishing of the bridges set this caliber apart from movements based on the same basic construction that Chronode supplies to other watch brands. Modules for diverse complications can be added to the basic movement, and Leica intends to use further stages of this caliber’s expansion in future models.
The new caliber is housed in a 41-mm titanium or stainless-steel case that is water resistant to 100 meters and recalls the purist aesthetics of Leica’s legendary cameras. Inspired by the lens locking system of the cameras, Leica’s own quick-change strap system offers a wide range of options for selecting the right wristband for every occasion. By pressing a fingertip to a button, which resembles the familiar red dot on Leica cameras, you can fasten the watch to a bracelet made of titanium or stainless steel, a black rubber strap, or a beige-brown textile strap. All wristbands are also available separately in Leica stores worldwide and at selected watch retailers.
Collection Overview
Three models comprise the premiere collection. The ZM 11 Titanium Launch Edition with its black-and-red dial is limited to 250 pieces, while the ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black with its brownish-black dial and the ZM 11 Steel Midnight Blue with its blue-black dial are not limited. Pricing is $7,325 for the titanium versions with a rubber or textile strap and $7,450 for the steel version with bracelet.
Hands-on in Wetzlar
The debut presentation at Leica’s headquarters in Wetzlar, Germany, gave us the opportunity to admire the high quality of all components. We particularly like the dial’s construction: Two thin layers — the upper one, etched with grooves — offer a wide range of design options. The Titanium Launch Edition is particularly imaginative: It has two black dials with red lacquered inside edges on the upper dial. When the watch is worn, the red accents can’t be seen until you turn your wrist.
The Coffee Black version also has a dial consisting of two black layers, but here the upper level is coated with a translucent lacquer that lends a warm brownish shimmer.
Our Pick: Midnight Blue
Our favorite is the stainless-steel Midnight Blue model with blue dial and black baseplate for two reasons: The radiant blue of the dial harmonizes well with the neutral tone of the metal case and, unlike the titanium versions, the case has both matte and polished surfaces. In keeping with this styling, the attractive steel bracelet — made using Leica’s own construction — features polished inner edges between satin-finished links.
While the combination of innovative dials and a warmly colored metal case is appealing, the light weight of the titanium versions is also impressive. Even with the matte-finished titanium bracelet, these watches are still light and comfortable on the wrist. Regardless of the case and strap combination you choose, the quick-change strap system makes it easy to swap one wristband for another.
Leica is aiming to reach a wider audience with these new watches. Unlike the more expensive ZM 1 and ZM 2 lines, these timepieces are priced under $10,000 and can be manufactured in larger quantities by Chronode. In our opinion, Leica stands a very good chance of accomplishing its goal.
This article was originally published in the April 2024 print issue. To subscribe to WatchTime Magazine, click here.
