Hermès Takes the H08 into New Territory with the Squelette

You can get square watches, and you can get cushion-shaped watches. But you won’t find much that looks quite like the Hermès H08. Since its debut in 2021, it’s become the brand’s flagship men's watch collection with various iterations. Last month at Watches and Wonders 2026, though, Hermès took it to another level with a “manufacture” movement designed especially for it and its distinctive shape. It’s new territory for the H08’s horological sophistication and interest, as well as its price.

Though in a familiar case with similar dimensions, a fully skeletonized dial and movement are a first for the collection. At launch it comes in two variants, each with a few color options of rubber straps: one model with blue-lumed hands and indices providing sufficient contrast, the other with a gray monochromatic treatment. The latter downplays legibility, often a sacrifice with skeletonized dials, but is perhaps more versatile for pairing to the different strap colors. Both feature black DLC-coated titanium cases and black ceramic bezels. 

Measuring 39mm wide by 42mm lug-to-lug, with a water resistance of 100m, these are identical specs to the H08 you know. A key difference to be aware of, however, is that it’s over a millimeter thicker at 11.69mm, but that shouldn’t hurt its wearability and it in fact might wear smaller than expected due to its color and titanium construction. Though the similarities maintain continuity, this represents a redesign and repositioning — and it’s all built around the movement (even though the movement is built for the case).

For 20 years already, Hermès has had a partial stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the same movement maker that does impressive work for the likes of Parmigiani and Richard Mille. Does that make a Vaucher movement “in-house,” “manufacture” or something else for Hermès? You be the judge. In any case, the automatic H1837 movement hithertofore powering the H08 and other watches always afforded Hermes some deserved cred, but the new H1978S movement ups the ante. 

Also made by Vaucher, this movement isn’t just notable for extensive skeletonization, but that it’s made for the H08 expressly. It’s no round peg in a square hole. A cool design touch is the unusual shape of the rotor which follows that of the squarish case with rounded corners. That shape is further echoed in the inner minutes/seconds track on the dial side, and the case’s titanium construction is echoed in the movement’s bridges made of the same material. Thoughtful touches like these are what can make a watch feel genuine and holistic. 

What does the new Squelette mean for the H08 collection going forward? It’s not clear that it’s replacing the existing format, but the “S” in the H1978S movement’s name suggests the possibility of a non-“S,” non-skeletonized version. With a price tag of $21,600, it’s over double the price of the previous H08 and in competitive territory, but this typically is the range in which such cohesive watchmaking begins. 

Learn more on Hermès’s website, here.