A Watch Test: A Closer Look at the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph

While dive watches represent one of the most popular categories in the industry, there are surprisingly few mechanical options that come with a chronograph function, and almost none that offer a big date complication on top of that. When it comes to creating a submersible chronograph, one of the biggest challenges for watch manufacturers are the additional openings in the case for the chronograph’s pushpieces, because the apertures must be sealed just as effectively as the opening for the winding crown. Thanks to modern construction principles and state-of-the-art materials, Glashütte Original managed to maintain the original water resistance of the SeaQ of 300 meters.

With regard to the movement’s functions, the Saxon manufacturer offers several special features. Glashütte Original’s in-house Caliber 37 features a flyback function that enables you to restart the chronograph via the lower pushpiece without first returning the elapsed-time hands to their zero positions. Even more special, however, is the brand’s characteristic big date display, which celebrated its 25th anniversary with last fall’s introduction of the model we tested in WatchTime’s April issue. The Panorama Date consists of two concentrically arranged disks that both occupy the same plane, thus eliminating the need for a divider to separate the two digits.

Functional Movement

Some purists might be bothered by the fact that this dive watch has a see-through caseback, but let’s be honest about it. This model is even more of a luxury item than it is a diving device. And who wouldn’t want to look at such a beautiful movement? You can see a skeletonized rotor with a double-G emblem and a screwed-on, solid gold oscillating weight; an automatic bridge with blued screws; gold-plated engravings; striped finishing and a beveled and polished inner edge; a classical column wheel to control the chronograph functions; and an escapement with a silicon hairspring that resists magnetic fields, shocks and temperature fluctuations. The mechanical ensemble isn’t only visually appealing; it also offers impressive functionality. The rate can be finely regulated by turning four weighed screws along the balance’s rim. A swan’s neck spring is on board to correct the beat error, the undesired time difference between successive clockwise and counterclockwise swings of the balance. Vertical coupling assures that the elapsed-seconds hand starts smoothly when the upper push-piece is pressed. A flyback function eliminates the need to stop and zero the chronograph before beginning a new elapsed-time measurement — you simply press the lower pusher once and the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds hand instantly restarts.

The automatic movement accumulates an impressively long 70-hour power reserve, which is on a par with manufacture movements from Rolex, Breitling and Tudor. We liked the clear and unambiguous clicking of the two disks during the quick correction of the panorama date. Unscrewing the crown for this purpose or to set the time reveals a red ring around the crown’s shaft, which warns against starting a dive before the crown has been screwed shut. A constructive finesse increases the shock resistance. To ensure that a sharp blow doesn’t cause the dial to bend and potentially obstruct the motion of the hands, the face is screwed to the movement plate by a hollow hexagonal socket screw slipped over the shafts of the hands.

Testing the watch on a professional Witschi timing machine showed 0 seconds average daily deviation. While this performance is absolutely perfect, a maximum difference of 8 seconds among the several positions resulted in a deduction of a few points in our strict test. In the wearing test, the watch neither gained nor lost more than 1 second per day, thus not only proving itself convincing in theory, but also in everyday life.

Good Workmanship

In addition to the excellent rate performance, we were also favorably impressed by the design, the functionality and the craftsmanship. The good workmanship begins with a meticulously satin-finished case with polished bevels, continues to a dial with sunburst decorations, applied indexes and a stepped date window, and ends in a sturdy synthetic strap

made from recycled fishing nets. The wristband has several advantages compared to ordinary textile straps. First, it doesn’t continue under the case, so nothing obstructs the view of the handsome manufacture movement. Next, it consists of two layers: a rough outer one for a sportily robust look and a finer lower layer for good wearing comfort. The strap is thick and sturdy enough to be a good match for the watch’s styling, yet also supple enough fit comfortably around your wrist. In this way, it assures that the watch’s height of 17.3 mm never becomes a problem. A thick watch like this one would probably be unwieldly and top-heavy on a standard textile strap. Here, however, its weight is well distributed and transformed into the positive feeling of having “plenty of watch on your wrist.”

The lower edges of the lugs are sharp, but this is only noticeable when you put the watch on, not while you are wearing it. Overall, this watch is not an unobtrusive accessory that slips discreetly under a shirt cuff or the sleeve of a sweater. Instead, it sits prominently on your wrist, where it attracts admiring attention.

A Luxury Watch with Diving Ambitions

The striking appearance of the case is well matched by the diving functions, which include a rotating bezel, an eye-catching arrow pointer on the tip of the minute hand and plenty of luminous material, which glows bluish in the dark and lasts a long time so you can read the time throughout the night. It’s more difficult, but not impossible, to see the luminous surface of the small lollipop hand at the 3 in the predawn hours. As a genuine dive watch that was designed to meet the requirements of the current standards, the SeaQ must offer a luminous, continually running second hand so a diver can see in dark waters that the movement is still running.

The dive-time bezel with its scratch-resistant ceramic scale snaps firmly into place and purrs gently when turned: These two details testify to the component’s high quality. The bezel can be rotated well with or without wearing thin gloves, but it isn’t easy-to-grip enough to be operated while wearing a pair of thick gloves. The zero triangle glows in the dark, as required by the contemporary standard for dive watches. However, people who actually go diving wearing this $11,200 watch will have to make do without additional luminous markings.

Although the strap is waterproof and tear resistant, it’s obviously designed for everyday use or for swimming in warm climates. It isn’t long enough to slip over the sleeve of a diving suit, but it perfectly matches the rest of the watch in terms of its high quality and robust look, which stand for utilitarian luxury. This watch can be relied on at any time, and it inspires its wearer both visually and functionally. In short, it’s precisely the watch that we have been missing.

Specs

Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph

Manufacturer:
Glashütte Uhrenbetrieb GmbH, Altenberger Strasse 1, D-01768 Glashütte/Saxony, Germany

Reference Number:
1-37-23-02-81-09

Functions:
Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with counters for 60 elapsed seconds and 30 elapsed minutes, big date

Movement:
Manufacture Caliber 37-23, automatic, 28,800 vph, 47 jewels, stop-seconds function, flyback function, column wheel, rocking pinion, silicon hairspring, fine adjustment via four weighted screws along the balance’s rim, 70-hour power reserve; diameter = 34.2 mm, height = 8 mm

Case:
Stainless-steel case with unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel, curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, screw-down crown, fully threaded caseback with sapphire crystal window, water resistant to 300 m

Strap and Clasp:
Synthetic strap made of recycled fishing nets with stainless-steel pin buckle

Rate Results:
Deviation in seconds per 24 hours (With chronograph off/on)

• Dial up: +5 / +7
• Dial down: +1 / +3
• Crown up: -3 / -2
• Crown down: -3 / 0
• Crown left: +1 / +1
• Crown right: -1 / 0
• Greatest deviation: 8 / 9
• Average deviation: 0 / +1.5

Average Amplitude:

• Flat positions: 283° / 256°
• Hanging positions: 250° / 225°

Dimensions:
Diameter = 43.2 mm, Height = 16.95 mm

Variations:

• With gray synthetic strap or black rubber strap (Ref. 1-37-23-02-81-08 or Ref. 1-37-23-02-81-06, $14,400)
• With safety folding clasp (Ref. 1-37-23-02-81-36, Ref. 1-37-23-02-81-33, or Ref. 1-37-23-02-81-34, $14,700)
• With stainless-steel bracelet including quick extension mechanism and safety folding clasp (Ref. 1-37-23-02-81-70, $15,600)

Price:
$14,400

Scores

Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph

Strap and Clasp (max. 10 points):
The sturdy and comfortable synthetic strap ends in a distinctively shaped buckle with a milled pin.
Score: 8

Case (10):
The case of this dive watch is water-resistant to 300 meters, well made, and high quality with two sapphire crystals and a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel. The lugs are sharp on the underside, but this is not noticeable when the watch is worn.
Score: 9

Dial and Hands (10):
Eye-catching details include a sunburst finish, applied luminescent hour markers, and a stepped date window; the hands are impeccably crafted.
Score: 9

Design (15):
This watch doesn’t appear unique at first glance, but closer scrutiny reveals many special details like the arrow pointer on the minute hand and the Panorama Date.
Score: 13

Legibility (5):
All luminous indicators and the Panorama Date are easy to read. The chronograph’s elapsed-time hands offer less contrast.
Score: 4

Operation (5):
The crown and push-pieces are easy to operate, as is the rotating bezel.
Score: 5

Wearing Comfort (5):
The sturdy wristband prevents this tall model from feeling top-heavy, but it’s still too thick to slip under a buttoned shirt cuff.
Score: 4

Movement (20):
The manufacture chronograph caliber has a flyback function, column wheel, silicon hairspring, 70-hour power reserve, and sophisticated decorations.
Score: 17

Rate Results (10):
The daily deviation is a perfect 0 seconds, and the maximum difference among the several positions is an acceptable 8 seconds. Fortunately, the values were very similar when the chronograph was switched on.
Score: 8

Overall Value (10):
Despite the high quality and numerous good features, the price still seems somewhat high.
Score: 7

Total: 84 Points

This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in the May/June 2023 Issue. To subscribe to WatchTime Magazine, click here.

And to learn more, visit Glashütte Original, here.