Ad
Ad
Ad
Ad
Ad
Ad
Reading time 3 min.

Little Helpers: A Closer Look at Subdials

2022_Frederique_Constant_FC-775BL4NH6B_Detail_5_Photo©Eric_Rossier_HD
© ERIC ROSSIER

This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in March 2022.

Chronograph (stopwatch), chronometer (precision certificate), tourbillon (an escapement to increase accuracy) and Geneva Waves (a traditional Swiss decoration technique): the horological dictionary is full of terminology that gets enthusiasts excited but may mean very little to outsiders. However, some expressions are self-explanatory, such as the subdials.

TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR OPENFACE
TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR OPENFACE © PR

As their name suggests, these are small dials that display various functions across the main dial. The more complex the watch, the more of these subdials are needed. They are particularly common on calendar watches, which provide information on the current day of the week, month and date, such as the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Complete Calendar, shown above.

Other functions that are usually displayed on subdials are the power reserve indicator and the GMT indication. The moon-phase indication, one of the oldest and most charming complications, is also usually shown on a subdial. It has a particularly refined entrance on this Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon
Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon © PR

One special type of subdials are the so-called totalizers or counters, which indicate the elapsed minutes and hours on chronographs, like on this Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date by Glashütte Original.

Glashutte-Original_1-37-02-08-02-62_Sev_Chrono_PD_St_NLS_blue_dial_Detail_2_RGB
© PR

However, a subdial does not necessarily have to be round, but can also echo the cushion shape of the case or displayed on a sector, which is often the case with retrograde displays, when a hand jumps back to zero before it starts its journey again, like on Maurice Lacroix's Triple Rétrograde Masterpiece.

Screen-Shot-2022-03-11-at-2.02.22-PM
© PR

Despite its name, a subdial can also display the main time. This is called an off-centered time display.

ALS_191_032_LANGE_1M04_a6-copy
© SCHIMSCHAR.COM

One of the best-known examples is the Lange 1 from A. Lange & Söhne, whose harmonious layout with off-centered hours and minutes, power reserve display, large date and small seconds has written history in modern times.

Screen-Shot-2022-03-11-at-2.14.51-PM
© PR

Speaking of small seconds or subsidiary seconds, they are the most common function displayed on a subdial. In particular, it lends a nostalgic touch to classic three-hand timepieces, such as the above pictured The Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo.

Do you have a favorite subdial-equipped timepiece? Let us know in comments, below!

Archiv

Latest Articles

A New Chapter: Patek Philippe Introduces the Gondolo Ladies First  - Art Deco-inspired design meets diamonds, colorful gemstones, and quartz technology
Patek Philippe reveals a new chapter in its women’s jewelry watches with six Gondolo Ladies First models that are a modern and colorful reinterpretation of the manufacture’s heritage piece, the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph.
4 minutes
The Louis Vuitton Monterey Returns in Green and Black Ceramic - 1980s design meets contemporary watchmaking
After last year’s limited-edition debut in yellow gold, Louis Vuitton adds two ceramic versions of the Monterey to its permanent collection.
3 minutes
Oct 10, 2026
RZE UTD-8080 Debuts with an In-House Digital Module - An upgradeable titanium tool watch
RZE equips the titanium UTD-8080 with its first in-house digital module, adding dual time, multiple alarms, a countdown timer, and an upgrade path for owners.
3 minutes
Oct 10, 2026

You might also be interested in

Glashütte Original Introduces The 70s - A mechanical tribute to the analogue era
Glashütte Original launches The 70s, a new line within the Vintage Collection inspired by vinyl records, vintage amplifiers and analogue hi-fi, paired with finest Saxon mechanical watchmaking and some casual-sporty credentials.
4 minutes
Sep 16, 2026
To the Summit without Oxygen: A Spotlight on the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen
Montblanc is emphasizing the meaning of its brand name to a greater degree and creating innovative watches connected to alpinism. The company recently collaborated with extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner to create a watch with no oxygen inside its case.
9 minutes
May 25, 2026
James Bond's Watches: The Complete Movie Timeline - FEATURE
He’s the world’s most famous secret agent, and the selection of watches on his wrist is at least as varied as the parade of “Bond girls” at his side. Our timeline presents an overview of James Bond's watches throughout the years.
7 minutes
Ad
Ad
Ad
Ad
Ad