A Gentleman Diver with a Jest for Life: Hands-On with the Ligure Tartaruga
With over twenty years in the industry, you might think you have seen it all, yet there are still brands that even I haven't heard of. One of them is Ligure, which came to life on a terrace in the harbor of Portofino when three friends decided that the world could use another watch brand. After reviewing their Tartaruga, a gentleman's divers watch, I can say that they were right.
The grounding principles of Ligure are quite ambitious. They talk about quality, affordability, and originality while not cutting any corners. They also include that typical Italian jest for life into the watches. Priced at €950 when on a bracelet and starting at €795 on a rubber strap, the Tartaruga has an attractive price tag that becomes all the more interesting when you more closely examine the watch itself.
The Tartaruga's case shape is inspired by the turtle, after which it takes its name in Italian. With a diameter of 41mm, Ligure hit the sweet spot of having enough wrist presence without making the watch overly large. The case shape also makes it that it sits nicely on the wrist as the base is just a bit larger than the dial and bezel. For this Tartaruga, the dial combines a sunburst-finished silver center with a matt outer ring, which gives it a sophisticated look, while red details add a bit of spice to the design. The indices look bold thanks to the black outline and are filled with plenty of blue Super-LumiNova. The sapphire crystal is domed but ever so slightly. It gives the watch just a bit more character without having to deal with the distorting effect of more extremely domed sapphire crystals.
The bezel is also well executed and has 120 clicks to make a full rotation. The crown is equally pleasant to handle and tucked away at the four o'clock position. While I was first a bit worried that it might be too large and hinder wrist movements, this was not at all the case. A screw-down case shows the map of Italy. It is all polished, and that might just be too much of a good thing, as I would have loved to see a bit more contrast with either the landmass or the sea in a brushed finish. Nevertheless, the caseback plays an important part in making this Ligure 200-meter water resistant. I am glad that Ligure kept it all practical here, as the vast majority of clients will be well served with this level of water resistance. They also forgo helium escape valves and such and focused on making a beautiful and practical watch.
Ligure opted to power the Tartaruga with a Sellita SW200. No arguments there, as this movement is robust and reliable and perfect for a divers watch. It is not the best-looking movement, but thanks to the closed caseback, that is not an issue.
The bracelet, with its traditional three-link configuration, is less original than the case but does suit it nicely. The links are thick and ooze quality, but the best part is the clasp. It is extremely robust yet a joy to handle. Ligure paid a lot of attention to the finishing of the clasp so that it sits smooth against the wrist. It offers micro-adjustment options on both sides of the pushers, allowing you to position the clasp perfectly. This also acts as a counterweight to the watch itself, making it very enjoyable to wear.
Ligure also offers a strap for the Tartaruga, which is made from two colors of silicone. With a thickness of 4.5mm, it offers the same sense of robustness as the metal bracelet, yet with a different look and feel. Ligure made the texture of the inside of the strap like the rain tire of a car. This allows moisture to be drained and further increases the wearing comfort. The rubber strap utilizes the same clasp as the metal bracelet, and both come with quick-release pins. Next to this silver dial, does Ligure also offer the Tartaruga also with a blue or black dial, both with matching bezel inserts.
While in a way, this Ligure is a rather traditional, almost old-school, divers watch, it excels in the way that it delivers its qualities. Form and function strengthen each other, and the Tartaruga never explores the extreme. It results in a pleasantly sophisticated diver that is indeed fit for a gentleman. Its outstanding quality makes it a joy to handle, while the well-finished parts make it an equal pleasure to wear. The design is easy-going, and like your favorite jeans, it goes with nearly everything. The only thing that Ligure can improve is promoting themselves a little bit louder, as the Tartaruga might just be the divers watch quite a few enthusiasts are looking for but not yet know about, yours truly included.
For more info, visit Ligure, here