Watch Test: The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles
Named after the street in the Swiss watchmaking town of Le Locle, Switzerland, where the Tissot factory was established back in 1907, and where its headquarters are still located today, the brand has just recently introduced new models boasting new, sleekly simple dials and an antimagnetic Nivachron hairspring that’s unaffected by magnetic fields that can potentially emanate from handbag magnets, loudspeakers and induction stoves. The 39-mm Tissot Chemin des Tourelles watch with gray dial that we got to test looks especially stunning when worn on its five-row stainless-steel bracelet, which Tissot offers as an alternative to cowhide straps in various colors. Like the leather straps, the metal bracelet features a quick-change system triggered by sliders at each end of the bracelet. The steel bracelet also offers a handsome alternation between brushed and polished links, as well as the functional reliability of a double folding clasp that opens in response to pressure on the push-pieces. The clasp fits well on the underside of the wrist and has no sharp edges, but unfortunately the rest of the bracelet tends to catch a few hairs on the arm. The bracelet also lacks a quick-extension mechanism to accommodate the forearm if it swells due to hot weather or strenuous exercise.
The bracelet’s links are only pinned rather than screwed, but you wouldn’t expect otherwise on a model in the price range under $1,000. The back with its mineral glass window is only pressed onto the case but it fits tightly enough to resist water pressure up to 5 bar. On the front, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal arches high above the large dial, which makes this 39-mm watch look larger than it actually is.
Inner Values
On the back, you can see a clear view of automatic caliber Powermatic 80, whose name indicates its long-lasting power reserve of 80 hours. Tissot uses ETA’s modern caliber here in an upgraded version with a Nivachron hairspring, which is nearly insensitive to magnetic fields thanks to the use of a titanium alloy. The hairspring in all Powermatic movements can breathe freely because the rate is finely adjusted by turning eccentric weights on two opposite spokes of the balance.
As you would expect from an entry-level watch, this model’s movement remains mainly undecorated, although Tissot individualizes it with a brushed and skeletonized rotor, which has been engraved with the brand’s name. The rate values are very good: According to the Witschi electronic timing machine, our test watch ran only half a second per day too fast. And the individual rate values didn’t spread too far, with a range of just 7 seconds.
The new Chemin des Tourelles has plenty of visual appeal thanks to its elegant case, the historicallooking bracelet, the curved sunburst dial (except for the white date disk), and the faceted hour and minute hands, which each has a polished and a grained half. This special treatment of the hands prompted Tissot to forgo luminous material, so the face remains completely dark at night. Together with the highly reflective crystal, this results in a mixed picture in terms of readability.
Nevertheless, with the latest version of the Chemin des Tourelles, the Swiss brand has succeeded in hitting a proverbial home run. It’s a great and affordable everyday watch — and above all, can be an elegant introduction to the fascinating world of mechanical timepieces.
Scores
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles
Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 points): 7
Case (10): 7
Dial and hands (10): 8
Design (15): 12
Legibility (5): 3
Operation (5): 5
Wearing comfort (5): 4
Movement (20): 13
Rate results (10): 8
Overall value (10): 9
Total: 76 points
Specs
Manufacturer:
Tissot SA, Chemin des Tourelles 17, 2400 Le Locle, Switzerland
Model:
Chemin des Tourelles
Reference number:
T139.807.11.061.00
Functions:
Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
Movement:
Powermatic 80 / ETA C07 (based on ETA 2824)
Automatic, 23 jewels
Nivachron hairspring – antimagnetic, shock and temperature resistant
80-hour power reserve
Diameter = 25.6 mm
Case:
Stainless steel
Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Mineral glass window in caseback
Water resistant to 50 m
Bracelet and clasp:
Five-row stainless-steel bracelet with quick-change system
Double folding clasp with push-pieces
Rate results:
Average daily deviation: +0.5 seconds
Greatest difference among positions: 7 seconds
Dimensions:
Diameter: 39 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Variations:
Models available in 34, 39, and 42 mm
Price range: $725–$850
Price of tested model:
$775
To learn more, visit Tissot, here.
This article was originally published in the July/August 2023 print issue. To subscribe to the magazine, click here.
