Editor’s Pick: The Most Memorable Watches From 2024
As we approach the end of the year, the editorial team at WatchTime is reflecting on many of the standout timepieces that defined 2024. This year, watchmakers from across the industry brought innovation to the forefront, embracing bold designs and colors, groundbreaking materials, and impressive technical achievements. Yet, as we look back on the highlights of the past 12 months, there were still some watches our editors found to stand out more then others. Join us as we look back at this year's most memorable watches!
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver
Martin Green, Editor-at-Large
During the year, I am fortunate to review a wide variety of watches hands-on. Among the watches sent to me was Laurent Ferrier's Classic Moon Silver. It is an elegant name for an elegant watch that looks great in photos but is absolutely smashing in real life. While I do wear those watches for hands-on reviews, I am always extra careful as they are not my property. The people at Laurent Ferrier must have known that because not only did they send the Classic Moon Silver for an extended period, but they were also very persistent in telling me that I should wear the watch during my daily activities. While hesitant, I did do it, and this only made me fell in love with the watch even more.
Laurent Ferrier is a brand of subtle details, and the Classic Moon Silver is the perfect example of this. Everything is just perfect, but it also maintains a sense of frivolity. The watch is like a big movie star who hasn't forgotten that he is still a human like all of us. It gives this Laurent Ferrier a sense of modesty you wouldn't expect from such a haute horlogerie creation. What also surprised me was the incredible play of light from the dial and not only the exquisite moon phase indicator. The recessed day and month windows, the hands, they all chipped in, making the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver more an experience than just another watch.
Price: CHF 80,000 excluding taxes
To learn more, visit Laurent Ferrier, here.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
Sabine Zwettler, Contributor
The Toric Petite Seconde from Parmigiani Fleurier has certainly captured the attention of connoisseurs in 2024, and for good reason. It has all the ingredients needed for a sophisticated dress watch: impeccable design, finest craftsmanship, and–last but not least–a top-notch hand-wound movement with an exceptional finishing quality. The dial which seems simple yet is incredibly well-crafted and harmoniously balanced is a true beauty to behold. Thanks to an ancient graining technique it plays with the light and creates a stunning backdrop for the minimalist layout comprising of hour markers and three hands. Inspired by the “vintage” aesthetics of the 1960s, the it is not uniformly flat, but beveled, with the edges sloping slightly to rest against the inner face of the case.
Its polished case, with a diameter of 40.6mm and a height of just 8.8mm, shares the signature knurled bezel design with the Tonda PF collection and is available in two striking versions: a platinum model with an almond-green dial and a pink-gold variant with a sandy-gold dial. It’s hard to say which one is more beautiful, the warmer toned or the one with the cooler aura. At its heart beats the PF780, a newly developed movement with 60 hours of power reserve and an operating frequency of 4Hz. Three large surfaces in 18-carat rose gold, decorated with Côtes de Fleurier, serve as bridges. Only the two barrels and the regulating organ are visible within this beautiful mechanical scenery.
The Toric Petite Seconde is a watch that doesn’t shout for attention but instead makes a quiet yet powerful statement of refinement on the wrist, just as a dress watch is supposed to do.
Pricing is marked at CHF 49,500 for the pink gold edition and for CHF 56,500 for the platinum model.
To learn more, visit Parmigiani Fleurier, here.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique
Roger Ruegger, Editor-in-Chief
Objectively, the new Cubitus from Patek was by far the most talked about new watch release this year. Personally, however, the new 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique in grade 23 titanium made me fall in love all over again with the Fifty Fathoms. Despite Blancpain having also just added a regular green dial Bathyscaphe Ceramic (which brought back memories of the stunning Mokarran edition we covered in 2020).
The 42.3mm case used for the Fifty Fathoms is not only the smallest size for the 1315 (while still offering that kind of water resistance), it is also much closer to the diameter of the original watch that was launched in the 1950s. Despite being a fan of “tool watches” in general, in this case, I'm also quite glad to see that Blancpain has added a display caseback, which goes well with both the NATO (no markings from the strap) and tropic strap (getting to see the movement) – the two most attractive configurations in my opinion. And much to my surprise, I am even noticing being attracted to the rose gold version – a first when it comes to dive watches.
In the dress watch category, I have to completely agree with Sabine Zwettler, the Toric Petite Seconde (in platinum) was definitely one of my highlights from Watches and Wonders.
Prices starts at CHF 15,300.
To learn more, visit Blancpain, here.
Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendent 7077
Dara Hinshaw, Managing Editor
This year, I was impressed by the recently introduced Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendent 7077 (Ref. 7077BB/GY/9XV), which draws its inspiration from the historical subscription pocketwatches and tact (touch) watches created by the brand's founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. In this new model, intense "Breguet Blue" adorns the watch's face and gives it a modern look while offering added contrasts for increased legibility. The new color also highlights the technical architecture, which gives an unobstructed view of the balance wheels in motion. The watch's geometric appearance is stunning, focusing on the symmetrical design of its displays and dual balance wheels. Two overlapping blue arcs stand out on the dial: on the left, the chronograph's 20-minute counter, which is driven by the central chronograph hand, and on the right, the power-reserve indicator.
Inside the 44mm 18k white-gold case is the equally impressive movement: manual-winding Caliber 580DR, conceived and patented by Breguet, which has two entirely separate gear trains. The first is responsible for the hours and minutes and operates a 3 Hz (21,600 vph), offering a 55-hour power reserve. The second operates at 5 Hz (36,000 vph), enhancing stability. With this frequency, the chronograph allows timing to a tenth of a second. The energy required for the chronograph is supplied when the reset function is activated and stored in a flexed blade spring. This reserve lasts up to 20 minutes, suited for short-time measurements. The chronograph function is operated by two screw-down pushers, preventing unintended activation. A small rhodium-plated arrow at 6 o'clock shows whether the chronograph function is "ON" of "OFF." Presented on a "Breguet Blue" alligator leather strap with white-gold folding clasp, the Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendent 7077 is priced at $93,600.
To learn more, visit Breguet, here.
Piaget Polo 79
Zen Love, Senior Editor
Raymond Weil had a breakout year with its Milisime. Panerai’s Submersible Lab ID watch was easily one of the most amazing products I’ve seen for some time. Constantin Chaykin made the world’s slimmest mechanical watch. And there were other very cool releases this year. But, in my estimation, the Piaget Polo 79 was a landmark.
It was introduced way back in January, and at the time I predicted it would be one of the most notable watches of the year. But I also wondered how it would be remembered by December. Well, here we are, and although the buzz for that particular model has abated some, the larger trend it belongs to has ballooned. The Piaget Polo 79 isn’t single handedly responsible for the rise of that funkily glam style some are calling the “geezer watch” in 2024, but was certainly part of it.
At the time it was announced, no one would have predicted it. Some, like myself, had long been fascinated with such gaudy design experiments from the 1970s and ‘80s, but resurrecting it in modern form helped bring this once obscure corner of vintage watches into the spotlight. Some called it overpriced, but that’s kind of beside the point. It’s not the most innovative or even necessarily my personal favorite, but it just might deserve the title of 2024’s most notable watch release.
Price: $73,000 USD.
To learn more, visit Piaget, here.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind
Daniela Pusch, Head of Editorial, WatchTime Germany
Among the most exciting watch releases of 2024, the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind stands out as a true marvel of innovation and artistry. This limited-edition timepiece not only redefines conventional design but also dares to challenge the very notion of timekeeping itself.
At first glance, the Santos-Dumont Rewind showcases the familiar platinum Santos case, a hallmark of Cartier's iconic collection, paired with a striking carnelian red lacquer. A closer inspection, however, reveals its unique twist: reversed Roman numerals and hands that move counterclockwise. This unconventional display is powered by the manual-winding Caliber 230, specifically engineered for reverse rotation. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, it offers a 38-hour power reserve – a technical achievement as mesmerizing as its aesthetics.
The Santos-Dumont Rewind comes in the large model size, measuring 31.5 x 43.5 mm with a slim profile of just 7.3 mm. Its signature crown, adorned with a ruby cabochon, adds a touch of elegance, while rhodium-plated, apple-shaped hands enhance the dial's symmetry and bold design. Priced at $38,400, the Rewind is more than a watch – it’s a daring statement that Cartier quite literally plays with time.
To learn more, visit Cartier, here.
Rolex Deepsea Dweller Yellow Gold
Caleb Anderson, Contributor
The watches that tend to stick out to me most are in one of two categories. The first are those that are the upmost practical. Often clad in steel, subtly sized, easy and quick to read, able to take a hit or two, highly water resistant, and with an interesting enough design to carry my interest from day to day. The second category are those watches which represent the ridiculous. Walking contradictions of over the top excess which no reasonable person should particularly desire, but which are nonetheless conceptualized, designed, manufactured, sold, and re-sold as something of artistic expressions of mechanical art. The Rolex Deepsea Dweller Yellow Gold is one such watch.
When the timepiece debuted at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, I then described its introduction as "an act of ostentatious balance." With theoretically professional-grade diving specs inclusive of a monobloc case, 3,900m of water resistance via Rolex’s Ringlock System, and a time-tested design courtesy of the Deepsea Dweller collection it belongs to, the watch is, in theory, ready for the deep. The kicker, as its name indicates, is that it's produced in solid 18k yellow gold, 44mm oyster case, bracelet, and all, with a few non-gold details in the form of its titanium caseback and helium escape valve, as well as ceramic bezel insert and lacquer dial in royal blue. Adding to its charm, the watch also features a date window, allowing the approximately 320 gram (that's just under three quarters of a pound) to readily serve as a daily wearer if one so desires.
The watch, to me, is so memorable because it blurs the line the between horological performance and performance art. It brings so many questions to the table like: Who is this watch for? Is it parody or commentary, or simply a self-serious exploration in a new form of less-than-practical excess? Does the use of gold compromise its diving specs? Could it even be used for diving? And, possibly most important to me: Why would they do this?
The reasoning, as far as I can tell is simply. "Why?" Because we can. And further it can now be yours, too, for 49,900 CHF, or just about $55,770 USD.
To learn more, visit Rolex, here.
What was your favorite or most memorable watch to come from 2024? Let us know in the comments!
