6 Watches Making Their In-the-Metal Debuts at WatchTime New York 2025

The 10th-anniversary edition of WatchTime New York is only a day away, and as anticipation builds, many of the more than forty participating brands have already begun unveiling novelties set to make their in-the-metal debut at the show. Taking place this weekend from October 19–21 inside Manhattan’s Gotham Hall, the event will once again bring together some of the world’s most captivating watchmakers, leading industry figures, and enthusiasts for a collectors’ event unlike any other. 

Over the years, WatchTime New York has become an essential launch pad for brands to showcase their latest creations to the U.S. audience— a tradition that continues this weekend, with close to twenty debuts expected. Below, we highlight six standout brands launching new timepieces this week— Czapek, Blancpain, Bianchet, Ulysse Nardin, Chopard, and Massena LAB— each set to make their first in-person showcase at the event.

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel

Launching today and set to be showcased in-person for the first time tomorrow evening, Ulysse Nardin expands its groundbreaking Freak collection with the Freak S Enamel, a bold evolution of its most complex time-only watch. Limited to 50 pieces each in vivid turquoise blue and deep ruby red, the 45mm titanium timepiece continues the Maison’s yearlong celebration of métiers d’art, working to blend avant-garde engineering with centuries-old Swiss craftsmanship.

At the core of the new Freak S Enamel is the in-house caliber UN-251, a six-plane construction movement featuring twin inclined silicon balance wheels, DIAMonSIL escapements, and the world’s smallest vertical differential— all powered by the brand’s patented Grinder automatic winding system. 

Notably, the new Freak’s rotating hour disc is finished in namesake, guilloché-flinqué enamel, crafted entirely in-house at Donzé Cadrans, Ulysse Nardin’s historic enamel workshop in Le Locle. Fired and polished by hand, the vivid blue and red surfaces embody the Freak’s signature fusion of high technology and traditional artistry, resulting in one of the most visually arresting designs debuting at this year’s show.

Blancpain Villeret Collection

The famed and historic watchmaker Blancpain will once again join us at Gotham Hall, soon introducing the latest evolution of its formal-focused Villeret collection. The expansion brings new dials in warm, autumnal shades, featuring subtly refined aesthetic details and beautifully hand-finished manufacture movements.

The launch encompasses sixteen total watches across three series: the Villeret Ultraplate 40 mm, a familiar automatic time-and-date; the Villeret Quantième Complet 40 mm, a complete calendar with moon phase; and the Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune 33.2 mm, a diamond-accented moon phase calendar in an elegant, compact size.

Czapek Antarctique Plique-à-Jour

Geneva-based Czapek will set down in New York for the weekend’s festivities, the party made just that more exciting with the brand marking 10 years of its own watchmaking journey. To celebrate, the brand will introduce the new Antarctique Plique-à-Jour, a ten-piece limited edition marking the milestone decade.

The watch is a distinctive expression of the brand’s acclaimed Antarctique series, featuring a dial crafted using the namesake plique-à-jour technique— a demanding form of enamel work meaning “letting in the daylight.” Layers of enamel are applied and fired within open metal cells without a backing, resulting in a dial that resembles a miniature stained-glass window. Alive with reflections and tonal variations, the look embodies a captivating transparency that distinguishes this highly limited celebratory edition.

Angelus Chronographe Télémètre x Massena LAB

Massena LAB once again joins us in New York this year, launching just in time for the show its latest collaborative edition: the new Angelus Chronographe Télémètre x Massena LAB. Limited to ten pieces, the release marks the latest partnership between Massena LAB and the esteemed watchmaker Angelus, following the attention-grabbing Angelus Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB that debuted in 2023.

The new Chronographe Télémètre is a refined, vintage-inspired chronograph housed in a slim 37mm by 9.25mm 18k yellow gold case and featuring a namesake telemetric scale across its multi-textured dial. Inside, the manual-winding Angelus caliber A5000 powers the watch; the movement is from the same family as the standard Angelus Chronographe Télémètre, which has been nominated for the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the Chronograph category.

Chopard L.U.C Inspirations from Japan - Artistic Crafts in Time

Chopard returns to the show this year, and while the brand’s official highlight is the L.U.C Lunar One— itself a distinct perpetual calendar with an orbital moonphase— the brand this week has debuted a capsule collection “inspired by the treasures of Japan.”

The capsule includes seven distinct watches. Among them is the piece unique L.U.C Full Strike Spirit of the Warrior, a hand-engraved minute repeater inspired by the discipline of the samurai. Three novel interpretations of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit — the Ensō, Samurai Last Stand, and Meditating Daruma — stage an encounter between East and West through Japanese design inspiration and Grand Feu enamel craftsmanship.

The L.U.C XP Urushi Ukiyo-e, an eight-piece limited edition depicting Mount Fuji, pays tribute to a work by the master woodblock printmaker Katsushika Hokusai. The L.U.C XP Nihontō, a 25-piece limited edition, features a dial handcrafted from damascened steel using a method inspired by tamahagane, the sacred steel of Japanese swords. Finally, the L.U.C XP Sakura by Night pays tribute to the nocturnal contemplation of cherry blossoms— symbols of ephemeral beauty.

If we’re lucky, we’ll see some of these exclusive models in person at the show.

Bianchet UltraFino Gold Edition Tourbillon

This will be the first year that Swiss-based Bianchet will make its WatchTime New York appearance, and the brand is touching down big with the debut of the UltraFino Gold Edition Tourbillon. The watch is an ultra-thin evolution of the brand’s signature tonneau aesthetic, crafted in 18K rose gold, and working to express Bianchet’s Golden Ratio design language in a more compact, elegant form.

Friday for WatchTime New York 2025 is sold out, but there’s still time to secure your tickets for Saturday and Sunday. To secure your tickets, click here.