Blast from the Past: A Closer Look at the Van Cleef & Arpels La Collection Full Calendar
One thing that never ceases to amaze me is how rich the heritage of the watch world is. Even after a career of over two decades in the industry, handling a wide variety of watches daily, going to manufactures, museums and auctions, talking to collectors, dealers and connoisseurs, you think that you have come to a point where you have seen it all. Think again, as with this edition of “Blast from the Past” we discovered an unusual Van Cleef & Arpels La Collection Full Calendar.
Van Cleef & Arpels launched the La Collection in 1982, which it considered its version of a “sports” watch. While this moniker may not go for other brands, things are different for Van Cleef & Arpels. Originally a jeweler, it was the “Pierre Arpels” that put the brand on the map as a watch manufacturer. Originally, Pierre Arpels designed the watch in 1949 for himself, utilizing the Vendôme lugs that Louis Cartier initially developed, but for which the patent had expired. This elegant construction consisted of a bar connected to the case in the middle. Pushed by friends and clients, Pierre Arpels decided to make his watch part of the Van Cleef & Arpels collection. Although still a bit of an insider secret, over the years the Pierre Arpels has amassed quite a following.
Moving toward the 1980s, the perception of luxury changed. Not only was there an increase in people with more disposable income, but they also enjoyed their wealth in a more active way than previous generations. This gave Van Cleef & Arpels room to introduce a collection next to the Pierre Arpels, which was made only in precious metal, specifically catering to these developments. La Collection was just that, as it gave a modern twist to the design cues of the Pierre Arpels. The models were available in full gold and steel/gold, like the automatic full calendar model featured in this article, which was launched in 1987. While only 35 mm in diameter, it looks a bit larger, thanks to the complex yet slender bezel and the relatively larger dial.
Van Cleef & Arpels really understands the power of subtle details. The bezel is stepped in three levels, starting with the highest, which is made from stainless steel and encloses the sapphire crystal. An 18k yellow-gold ring is next, where the third level is part of the case itself, which is also stainless steel. Here, Van Cleef & Arpels made small notches at each of the hour positions, which gives them a function and adds to this collection’s more sportive look. The crown is recessed on the side of the case so as not to interfere with the symmetrical design. There is also another reason for this, as Van Cleef & Arpels uses a very slim movement in this model, making the crown sit close to the skin, and this way, it also doesn’t interfere with any motions of the wrist.
While Van Cleef & Arpels was and is a well-known luxury brand, its watch production has always been relatively modest in comparison to others. Creating its own movements was, especially not in the 1980s, a priority. Instead, it relied on well-known suppliers for this, like Jaeger-LeCoultre. It is interesting to note that there are different versions of the La Collection Full Calendar. Some feature applied Roman numerals and indexes combined with gold hands, while this specimen has black lacquered hands and printed Roman numerals. This might have something to do with the very low production number stamped on the back. The dial itself also seems to look like enamel, unlike the lacquered dials of the versions with gold hands and applied Roman numerals and indexes. Calendar watches were obviously popular with Van Cleef & Arpels, as within the La Collection, it also had a perpetual calendar, as well as another full calendar model, this one with a pointer date and two windows for the day and the month.
The bracelet is also something you don’t see every day. Here, Van Cleef & Arpels clearly tapped into its rich heritage as a jeweler. The design and execution are very complex and refined, as the horizontal stainless-steel bars are connected with gold segments in a baguette shape. The construction is very supple, offering a very high degree of wearing comfort. The folding clasp is the only place where this bracelet shows its age, while the safety clasp underscores in a subtle way that this La Collection is as “sporty” as it gets with Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1980s. The collection was quite a success because it continued well into the 1990s. While it wouldn’t look out of place in an episode of Miami Vice, the La Collection models in general, and this full calendar in particular, have aged very nicely, as nearly all Van Cleef & Arpels do. With a lot of details, a very high build quality, a refined movement, and a casual chic appearance, it is a ‘blast from the past’ that continues to please.
To learn more, visit Van Cleef & Arpels, here.
This article was originally published in the July/August 2023 print issue. To subscribe to the magazine, click here.
