Zenith and Naoya Hida Unite for a Remarkable Interpretation of the Calibre 135

The story of Zenith’s legendary Calibre 135 continues with a new chapter shaped by one of contemporary independent watchmaking’s most respected voices. Following the highly acclaimed 2022 collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, which saw ten original Calibre 135-O observatory movements from the 1950s meticulously restored and finished, Zenith now turns to Japanese watchmaker Naoya Hida for a distinctly different interpretation of the historic movement. The result is the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co., a limited edition of just 10 pieces that inaugurates Zenith’s new Double Signed Program. Conceived as a platform for creative exchanges with independent watchmakers, the initiative invites selected partners to reinterpret significant Zenith timepieces while remaining faithful to their original spirit.

A Legendary Movement Through a New Lens

The Calibre 135 occupies a singular place in watchmaking history. Developed during the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions, it became one of the most decorated precision movements ever produced, earning an unrivaled number of chronometry awards for Zenith. Earlier this year, the manufacture introduced a modern re-engineered version of the movement in the new G.F.J. collection, named in honor of founder Georges Favre-Jacot. For this latest edition, Naoya Hida applies his own design philosophy to the platform, bringing a level of restraint and refinement that has become synonymous with his work since founding Naoya Hida & Co. in 2018.

Presented in a 39.15mm platinum case, the time-only watch draws inspiration from Hida’s NH Type 1 and NH Type 2 models. The solid silver dial embodies his preference for clarity and proportion, while showcasing an extraordinary level of hand craftsmanship. All inscriptions, including the dual signatures of Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co., are engraved using a traditional pantograph engraving machine. The three Arabic numerals are individually hand-finished by renowned Japanese engraver Keisuke Kano before being filled with deep blue urushi lacquer, creating a subtle contrast and remarkable sense of depth.

Crafted by Masters

The details extend well beyond the dial. The slender hour and minute hands are milled from solid gold using ultra-precise CNC machining before being hand-polished by a team led by master watchmaker Kosuke Fujita. A heat-blued steel small-seconds hand completes the display.

Turning the watch over reveals the modern incarnation of the Calibre 135 through a sapphire crystal caseback. The movement features broad Geneva stripes, hand-finished bevels, and a dark ruthenium treatment accented by gold-colored markings. Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), the hand-wound caliber retains several classical chronometry features, including a large variable-inertia balance wheel, a Breguet overcoil hairspring, and Charles Fleck’s distinctive double-arrow regulator. A stop-seconds mechanism and an extended 72-hour power reserve bring the movement into the modern era, while COSC certification confirms precision regulated to within ±2 seconds per day.

A Distinctly Japanese Character

The collaboration’s Japanese influence extends to the accompanying straps. Buyers receive three handcrafted options: a Himeji Kurozan leather strap finished with layers of traditional urushi lacquer, a strap crafted from premium Wagyu leather by Kyoto Leather artisans, and a deep indigo Japanese denim strap produced by the renowned Kaihara Denim mill in Hiroshima Prefecture. Each is fitted with a platinum pin buckle engraved with the initials G.F.J. Pricing is marked at approximately $75,000 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Zenith, here.