Sherpa Watches Ultradive Tuxedo: Dressy Diver

Sherpa Watches, a German brand spearheaded by mechanical engineer Martin Klocke, has been making waves in the independent watch scene by reviving iconic dive watches from the mid-20th century. Drawing inspiration from the legendary "Super Compressor" developed by case manufacturer Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA) and the Sherpa models from Enicar, Klocke delved into Swiss archives to resurrect this unique, pressure-activated water-resistance case sealing method by using modern-day materials and production methods. The first series of the OPS and Ultradive were limited and quickly sold out. Legend has it, that actor Alain Delon and singer Ed Sheeran are among the fans of these military-style tool watches that nonetheless have a charismatic technical elegance. This is even more highlighted in the new Ultradive "Tuxedo," a striking execution that brings dress watch refinement to a historically robust compressor-style dive watch.

Its silver galvanized dial, finished with a radiant sunray brushing that plays beautifully with light, recalls indeed a tuxedo style from a black-and-white movie from the 1940s. Contrasting with it are the black inner dive bezel and a dark red date indication at 3 o’clock. Otherwise there are all the typical elements that demonstrate the brand's attention to authenticity and detail: applied hour markers with diamond polished facets, diamond facetted hour and minute hands and the signature „double lollipop“ seconds hand. The watch face is protected by a highly domed box glass with metallization on the rim bottom to avoid unwanted reflexions.

While the Ultradive Tuxedo captivates with its refined dial and mid-century styling, it remains, at heart, a purpose-built dive instrument. Beneath its vintage charm lies a thoroughly modern execution of a true compressor dive watch, defined by Sherpa’s innovative compressor bayonet case architecture. Unlike conventional screw-down systems, the Ultradive’s crown is engineered to operate without threading. Instead, they—and the case itself—rely on the ingenious compressor principle: as the watch descends and water pressure increases, the external force actively reinforces the integrity of the seals. Specifically, the pressure pushes the case back more tightly against the gaskets, enhancing water resistance with depth rather than compromising it. This same principle is applied to the crowns, which use a proprietary gasket system made of a specially developed polymer. As water pressure mounts, the gasket is compressed more tightly against the crown tube, ensuring a secure, reliable seal. Measuring 40.0mm in diameter and 13.5mm thick, the Ultradive’s stainless steel case is compact yet robust. It is certified to meet the ISO 6425 standard for professional dive watches, rated to a depth of 200 meters (20 bar).

At the heart of the Ultradive "Tuxedo" beats the Mantramatic MM01 movement, a custom-built caliber based on the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour power reserve. Produced in premium (Top) grade, the  self-winding movement is finely decorated, featuring a gilt finish and a bespoke rotor designed exclusively for Sherpa. What sets the Mantramatic MM01 apart, however, is its deeply symbolic integration of two functional micro-prayer wheels—an homage to the Tibetan Buddhist culture prevalent in the Sherpa region. These wheels are engineered to rotate with the motion of the rotor, generating over 30 million mantras per year, subtly emitting positive energy and good wishes with every movement of the wrist. Complementing the timepiece is a Tropic-style strap, crafted from durable vulcanized rubber and available in black, ivory, or dark gray.

The Sherpa Ultradive "Tuxedo" is priced at $6,700. Orders are currently being accepted, with deliveries scheduled to begin in September 2025.

To learn more, visit Sherpa Watches, here.